On 15/12/2016 02:19, RJH wrote:
On 13/12/2016 11:12, John Rumm wrote:
On 13/12/2016 09:08, RJH wrote:
On 12/12/2016 23:29, John Rumm wrote:
On 12/12/2016 21:13, Capitol wrote:
Bob Minchin wrote:
harry wrote:
On Monday, 12 December 2016 17:56:56 UTC, wrote:
It keeps dripping frequently. Redoing it up makes no difference.
But
why... do these things use O rings?
NT
Most of them use a standard tap washer.
And according to type, Type A has an o ring around the gland so they
don't dribble when open. Type B has no o ring and does dribble when
draining down.
There is only a small difference in price so best to use the O ring
type
Or fit washing machine taps as I did.
I use service valves, and pipe the output through the wall into the
nearest drain or a suitable soak-away location. Saves messing about
with
hoses being draped through the house.
Sounds neat, but can you find a drain at the ch's lowest point?
Well if you can attach a drain valve to that point, you can attach a
pipe... so no different really.
So pipe from valve to drain. And if the drain is above the valve, you
use a pump, or tap into the drain somehow?
Each situation may be different. The last time I did it (solid floor
downstairs - so all pipes were above the floor level), the original
drain valve was on a horizontal pipe run to a downstairs rad in the hall
- probably a couple of inches above the skirting. There was a tee in the
pipe with a down facing stub, and a drain valve on the end. So I took
the valve off, and cut the stub back a bit and soldered on an elbow then
fed into a service valve that was now below and parallel to the pipe.
Drilled a hole through the wall above the drain gully outside, and piped
that through to the service valve. Outside just needed a down turn in
the pipe and 8" or so to direct the output at the drain. So to drain,
just turn on the service valve with a screwdriver inside, and water went
straight to the drain outside.
In this house they had already done something similar with a pipe below
floor level taken through the outside wall, and terminating at a normal
drain valve sticking out of the wall just below DPC level (which in this
place is still a couple of feet above outside ground level). That's over
a lawn, but obviously one can hose it to a another place outside if you
want.
At a friends place he has all the downstairs CH piping chased into the
solid floor. The service valves are again positioned outside, but this
time only 3 inches above ground level by a flower bed. Not quite as
easy, but still workable.
I'm sure I'm missing something :-) Just that every house I've lived at
the lowest CH pipe is well below the point of any surface drain.
Obviously anything above the FF (flats etc) and you're all set.
Even if so, then situation using a hose would be no better. The hose
would still need to rise to reach a drain in that case.
Now obviously you can still drain the bulk of the system even if the
drain level is higher than the lowest parts. If you really need to
completely drain the lowest part, and its well below drain level, then
you would probably need to drain to a condensate sump/pump style collector.
And the thought of draining even a clean ch system into a soakaway
sounds a bit gross.
Doesn't it smell for quite a while after you've drained the system? And
kill foliage etc?
Can't say I noticed - if the system is relatively clean with inhibitor,
you only get a small amount of sludge etc and lots of water to disperse
it. Also a drain over a flower bed etc only need drain into it for the
last little bit - you can run your hose outside for the bulk of the
drain down, and only the last (by then well flushed) few litres would
need to be dropped locally.
--
Cheers,
John.
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