On Mon, 12 Dec 2016 20:07:38 -0500, advised:

It's a pretty mediocre bead breaker - and even a good one often
needs to be applied to several points around the tire to knock it
down. The (cheap) breaker sometimes needs to be tied with a twisted
rope to keep them against the rim.. Helps to have it adjusted properly
too.

I have to agree with you that it's a "mediocre" bead breaker because I bent
the heck out of the breaker arm last night working on the one spare tire
that I have (it's not my SUV - I'm helping a relative by doing her tires):
http://i.cubeupload.com/LqS6N4.jpg

I don't have welding equipment, but I should probably weld on stronger
steel to make the arms more rigid:
http://i.cubeupload.com/mdLDK0.jpg

You are really going to need to change a lot of tires to pay for the
equipment with the money saved by not having someone else do it, and
I'll bet you ruin a few tires in the process.

I had calculated about $200 for the tools which, at about $20 per tire, is
about 10 tires. That's about two years payback time, assuming tires changed
on two cars every two years plus a flat fix once every two years per car
(which is about my rate).

So, pretty much, I'm going through 10 tires on two cars every two years so
two years from now, it will have paid for itself.

If you are doing it yourself because you don't trust tire shops, "rots
'a ruck,"

Tire shops suck.
1. They don't remove BBS hubcaps with the tool (they just pry them off)
2. They don't remove all the old weights (they just put on more)
3. They don't line up the heavy (or high) spot (they just use more weight)
4. They don't pressurize the tires correctly (everyone gets the same psi)
5. They don't torque lug nuts/bolts correctly (ditto on egalitarianism)
6. I've had bent BMW rims (I think they did it but I can't prove that)