"Mike W." wrote
Im using duct tape because there is NO trench right now so the grade
isnt a
perfect downhill run. There are spots where it runs a little up
hill... and
where the couplings are (And I am using the barbed fittings) the water
seeps
out and makes it absolutely pointless to use the pipe in the first
place. I
put the duct tape on to try to minimize this leakage. Im doing the
temp
thing with the pipe to try to dry the land up so I can get a trencher
in
there to do the job right.

The pipe will come out of the ground at the back of the lot and into a
small
ditch that hooks into a larger drainage ditch a little further down.
Sounds
like Im screwed since it will freeze there? What can I do? There has
to be
something. Would the warm water that comes out keep melting the ice
at the
end??

Who should I call for help? Plumber? Septic System guys?

Thanks for the advice,

Mike

"Gary Slusser" wrote in message
...

"B" wrote
The corrugated pipe itself is reasonably indestructible, and
there's
nothing
better for your purpose, so go for it. If the water freezes in the
pipe you
put below the frost line, then I guess the surface water won't be
flowing
that day either and your sump pump will not be running. If you
really
have a
warm spring under your house when it's 0 degrees outside and the
far
end of
your pipe is frozen, then you'll just have to have a backup pump
and
blow it
out the window. The key phrase in my reply is "nothing better".

I've picked up on the phrase.... and I'll say the best is rolled 160
psi
rated 1" PE tubing rather than a couple joints in corrugated tubing,
which he says he's having trouble with now. But then he's using DUCT
tape!!, they make insert barbed fittings for that material and they
don't have to be water tight. PE tubing is used for pressure lines
in
wells and service lines to buildings and direct buried. It lasts
decades
as long as the trench and backfill doesn't have sharp or large rocks
thrown on it.

But then if he used perforated corrugated tubing and prepared the
trench
and covering right and made a French drain across the wet spot in
the
yard at the same time, that might be the best WAY to do the job.

But you have to have natural drainage at the end of the pipe or it
will
freeze, so none of this coming UP out of the ground. And it sounds
as if
you have way too much water for a dry well unless you get a backhoe
in
and do it right.

I think he needs to look at the size of his sump pump pit and make
sure
it is sized right and the setting on the pump so he pumps more water
once the pump turns on than this little bit every so many minutes.

Gary
Quality Water Associates

So get the roll of PE tubing used for well water systems now and use it
on top the ground until you bury it. That will stop the leaks that
prevent the area from drying out.

I have mine sloping down to the bottom of a 4' deep ditch about 125'
from the house. The ditch is between two properties and fills with
moving water after heavy rains and snow melt. The water is from both my
sump pump needs and clothes washing machine and it doesn't freeze but, I
always wonder why it doesn't. Possibly it's due to the ground being very
sandy. I have a setup where the water is allowed to drain out of the
line int othe ditch after every pump run. It allows air into the line
when the pump shuts off. My pump doesn't run much though, so I don't
have a lot of water to freeze.

I think you may need a larger pit so the pump runs longer but less
frequently; or you need a different type pump that allows a longer run.

Plumbers will be prohibitively expensive and they normally don't do
digging. You're looking for someone that does the digging for well or
city water line or irrigation system installations. So call excavators
with mini excavators or ditch witch type equipment for quotes on the
ditch. The trench only has to be 2-4" wide and you can lay the line as
they do it and they can cover it up before they leave.

Gary
Quality Water Associates