On Thursday, November 24, 2016 at 9:42:06 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Monday, November 14, 2016 at 10:38:24 AM UTC-5, wrote:
Looking for how to get into the menu for fine adjustment of convergence on a rca P60908. Thank Ted

Also as far as experience I am a arcade game tech I have done convergence and tube swaps on many monitors and know enough to mark the rings before I start. I do not have much experience with projections and the electronic adjustment. I would start by making a single adjustment before going crazy. I don't know what the adjustment screen looks like at all. If there are values on screen I would wright them down before changing anything. I am not looking to screw anything up that's why I am here getting advice from you guys. Thanks Ted

You still haven't described the error or indicated why there is an error. This is paramount. The convergence amps are like transconductance amps and their gain is set by precision resistors. Actually not even precision, but they are when you go to replace them.

There are no values to write down in the convergence. The lines move IF the amps are working. If they are not working the values change but you don't see it. That means that later, unless you literally took a picture of the error you could fix the amp and not know it is fixed. I **** to not.

On the NAP sets they gave the customer the access to do multipoint convergence and that can play hell on doing the actual troubleshooting. Luckily the included a "factory reset". There is no such thing on the PCA. Even if you unplug it the data are changed. Some sets have values and have normal old style controls but they're digital, like horizontal linearity, vertical bow and all that, and many of them do have a value (number) associated with each parameter. No so with the RCA, it is an advanced point to point system.

You shouldn't mark the rings, you should know how to set the rings. I wish you would describe the error and what all was done. If you changed the flyback you NEED not to set anything in the convergence because when the vertical lines converge at the sides you have set the width correctly. That is a totally different menu.

Fukit, since you are diligent I guess I will give you enough rope to hang yourself, to the best of my recollection. Remember you need the ORIGINAL remote. If you don't have that you are screwed anyway.

Lessee, how was that, on the set, not remote, hold down the menu button and hit power and then vol+. Release. With the vol+ advance the number on the right to 80 and then hit the ch+. This will bring up the test pattern. You will notice in the middle one color missing for the crosshairs, that is the adjustment point. Green is always the reference and is not generally set. If the crosshairs are magenta, you are adjusting red, if cyan you are adjusting blue.

On the remote the numbers 2,4,6,8 move the adjustment point, the arrow keys by the menu down below do the actual adjustment. And as I said before, it is saved IMMEDIATELY. If any point on the screen will not adjust STOP RIGHT THERE. Just get out the scope and troubleshoot. Don't even try to get it back. Your odds of that are about the same as Donald Trump winning the gold medal in Women's gymnastics.

If you have changed the flyback to an aftermarket and the vertical lines on the sides do not converge you need the main service menu, which is the same process but you go to V76 instead of V80. Now THAT you can do without the remote, plus there are values. You can adjust each one and return them to their original values until you find horizontal width. You will not have the internal test pattern though but you can use an external generator or a few other things. You can use preview guide from the cable box with the color turned all the way down for example. If you are in the V76 menu, DO NOT go up into the hundreds, those are tuner alignment and if you screw that up there is almost no way back. I can do it but I was one of the best on my day. When they offer you $30 an hour and to drive 96 miles a day to pick you up and drop you off every day that says something. So don't think something like that is easy. It is not that hard if you have what they call a "TAG" generator, but doing without is not all that easy. I could also align the recording circuits in a VCR without fancy equipment, the other tech saw how I did it and said "This guy is a genius". With a scope and a meter I can align almost anything except I can't figure out a way to set the separation on FM stereo without a real generator. But if I have to now all I need it one of those modulators they have so you can play your portable CD or MP3 player in a car that has no jacks for it.

So anyway, you have your rope. You know how to make the noose. I still highly recommend you describe the convergence error in detail. You could have a coolant leak which will destroy what may well be one of the best units RCA ever made. It leaks on the boards and after months becomes conductive and corrosive and the unit usually is unrepairable at any price.

I got the big bucks because I know what the **** I am doing. I remember one Mitsubishi came in with bad convergence and I did not really investigate enough. It wasn't that bad so I tried adjusting it and it would not. STOP I said to myself. Come to find out it was a broken mirror !

Which is another thing, on a sixty inch the mirror is usually retractable for moving. Is it in it's proper running position ? Check into the mounting of that before getting into the software.

You are not just dealing with electronics here, it is also optical. It is amazing how advanced they got before LCD technology blew it all off. If you've ever had a CRT out you see this ultraconcave glass in front of it which makes the coolant into a lens. It allows the lens to gather much more light from the CRT. The CRT puts out omnidirectionally, this concentrates it and improves efficiency quite a bit.

Mostly useless knowledge now.

So there's your rope. Don't come back whining that you hung yourself, you have been warned.