"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...
On 2016-11-16, Larry Flynn wrote:


https://www.dropbox.com/s/fwtombsssh...ICALL.jpg?dl=0

POST15_TOOL59. This metal tool is approximately 4 inches by 5
inches
and consists of four parts: a rigid U-shaped part with cut-away
portions near the tops of the U; a threaded shaft passing through
the
bottom of the U; a smooth shaft providing leverage to turn the
threaded
shaft; and a round toy-top-shaped metal piece ending in a point
attached
to the threaded shaft but able to spin independently of it. The
arms of
the U are rigid. The cut-away portions near the tops of the U would
allow it to pass a rectangular piece with a cross-section 5/8 inch
by
1¼ inch.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/8lsch04amy...ICALL.jpg?dl=0

You're missing some parts. There should be a second assembly
with two parallel steel bars, with a set of various sized holes,
with
ridged IDs. They are split in half to the two parallel steel bars.
There is also a countersink on one side for each hole. The two bars
are
joined with pivots at one end, and the other end has a swinging
threaded
bar from permanent attachment to one bar and dropping into a slot on
the
other. There should be a T-handled nut to clamp this over copper
(or
perhaps steel) tubing. You clamp it with just the right distance
projecting, put it in the notches on the arms of the part you have,
rotate to lock it in place, and start turning the screw, advancing
the
cone into the end of the tubing.

The function is to flare the tubing for attaching to a coupling.
(You were supposeed to remember to slide the nut on to the tubing
first.
:-)


I've had better luck with this style of flaring tool which holds the
die centered on the tubing more accurately for the first bell fla
http://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDi...FRdMDQoddD4Caw

It works quite well with NiCopp brake line, a little less well with
steel which doesn't want to compress and bell out straight.