On 07/11/2016 19:18, Tim+ wrote:
rick wrote:
On 07/11/2016 00:20, Mark wrote:

if you have had the updated pcb board fitted was the yellow jumper removed
you get a number of led flashes then a 1sec pause which then repeats to give
an indication to what is causing the lockout
also in my experience that boiler need to run with the temp knob setting no
more then 1/3 on

-




Took a look at the card ( ans 2 spares) jumpers 1, 3 & 4 are fitted
(4=yellow)


Not sure why you would want to lower temp ?......... I have an
underfloor heating system, the manufacturers advice was to run boiler at
maximum temp.
So when store call for heat - boiler will work at maximum efficiency ...
they advise running at lower temp will reduce efficiency.


I think they're talking ********. If you have underfloor heating you have a
huge radiating surface and consequently you should be able to heat your
house with a lower system temperature. (Imagine having just having one
radiator to heat the whole house. It would have to be f*cking hot! The more
radiators you have the lower the system temperature can be.)

In theory boilers work more efficiently at lower temperatures due to
greater heat recovery from condensation. The lower the temperature of the
return flow the greater the heat recovery from the flue gasses.

So it seems you have incompetent repair men and an incompetent
manufacturer. Maybe this explains some of your problems? ;-)

Tim


Why then would you have a 'hot setting' if it makes no sense .... just
wondering.
It has been on max setting for 12 years. (maybe wrongly)


On the comment "you should be able to heat your house with a lower
system temperature."
yes .. but the more heat I store in Thermal store ... i.e. the battery,
the more the low temp loop for UFH can run for before boiler needs to
call for boiler input again.

Fewer high efficient burns are better than multiple burns.