View Single Post
  #7   Report Post  
Doordoc
 
Posts: n/a
Default Garage door opener help...and patch

"No1" wrote in message ...
No1 wrote:

A friend was trying to install a garage door by himself. He's
having some trouble, so I thought I'd help. I know nothing about
repair, but know about newsgroups, so I thought someone here could
help. He has a sectional door (CHI Model 2241) and is installing a
Craftsman 1/2 HP Model 139.53982SRT/139.53995SRT.

According to Step 11 on Page 24 of the manual, it discusses the
installation and fastening of the door bracket. How does one do
this? According to Figure 2, it looks like you drill through the
front of the door and put the Carriage Bolt through the whole door.
The bolt is longer than the door is. My friend, thinking this,
drilled a hole through the door and then realized then the mistake
that may have been made.

So I guess this would be a two part question. First, how do you
attach the door bracket and second, if it doesn't require drilling
through the whole door, how do you patch a door?

Thanks in advance.

Jim wrote:

the install booklet shows you that you drill through the top wooden
piece of the door and then attache the two bolts there holding on the
bracket so that when the opener pulls back on the top of the door that
the door will come up... on mine the door is about 2 inches thick
wood..
if you have metal and its real thin(like 1/16 to 1/8 in. thick then
you should use a backer board(piece of 2 by 4 inch wood for some
length
inside the door so the bracket can be attached to it....
gee if this is what is stopping him, what is he gonna do when it comes
time to attach the opener case through the ceiling and the angle
bracket metal to the ceiling joist/or rafter supports?????


I just realized that what you are talking about is a one piece solid door.
This is NOT a solid door. It is the "sectional" type that curves at the
sections as you open or close it. With the sectional, I don't believe you
attach it via the top of the door, but rather at the the on the door near
the top.


We do not ever bolt through the door on a steel door. The
installation manuals are outdated & don't say that they
are referring to a wood door only when they say to bolt
through the door. If the door is non-insulated you are
probably right that the bolt will pull through the skin
or it will simply cave in the section. Put a short button
bolt through the skin and paint over top of it.
As to attaching the garage door arm to the door:
Step 1: Throw the door bracket in the trash.
Step 2: Use a piece of angle (with sharp corners that
stick out from door cut off) from the hinge
to the top of door (or bottom of strut if there
is one)and use short self tappers to hold angle
to interior style.
Step 3: Use a 5/16 by 1-1/2" bolt to hold the arm to the angle.
Step 4: Leave nut on 5/16" bolt only loose enough to let door
arm pivot freely. Put a 2nd nut on bolt & tighten
firmly to other nut to keep them from loosening up.
Step 5: Finish opener installation in less than 48 hours.
Step 6: Disable any outside lock from being able to lock the
door.
Step 7: Have a good laugh about the hole in door & how long it
took to install a garage door opener.
Step 8: Swear that never again will you install an opener.

Doordoc
www.doorsandopeners.com