"jagerEd" wrote in message
t...
Thanks, Donald. Your list seems to have all the options, none of them
really
good. Here's the
problem I see with each:

1. I would be willing to replace the box with a bigger one if I can find
one. But the one that's in there is
circa late 60s brown plastic, is basically the same internal size as the
steel, gangable old work box with
sections. I will go to the Arrow Hardware and HD today and look again, but
do not recall having seen
a deeper box. Do they exist?

2. Your "cut & splice" alternative is a good one except for lack of
available length. I can see into the wall
there because I (boldly) cut the plaster for the new 2-gang box, just a
few
inches from the existing one.
The "load" line MIGHT be long enough to swing over the the new box, but it
would be tight. If it didn't work,
I'd be in trouble.

3. Finding a new power source is possible but not attractive. I'd have to
find the "end" of the lighting circuit,
by peering into switch boxes or tracing cables in the attic, then fish a
new
cable up and pull it down into
the bathroom getting the new box. I just did some of that to go from the
new
switch box to the new
exhaust fan and new light, so I know how but it's not fun. Worth thinkig
about nonetheless.


BTW, the existing box is original. We have lived here since 1972 and the
house was built in 1968, with a
single previous owner. By comparing this box to others I've had occassion
to
work on in the house over the years
it's clear no changes have been made. And, it's a tract house, so it's
hard
to believe the inspectors didn't approve
it in 1968. And, it's really not that complicated is it, 2 switches in a
box mid-way along a lighting circuit?

Thanks again for clarifying matters for me. I first option will be looking
bor a bigger old work 2-position box.


Ed


You can use a 4 11/16" square x 2 1/8" deep box (metal, 42 cu. in.) with a 2
gang 4 11/16" plaster ring. You can attach the box to the stud with
drywall screws through the holes in the side of the box. Don't forget to
ground the box by connecting the equipment grounding conductor with a green
ground screw to the box. I'd be concerned about splicing copper to aluminum
though.....special connectors are needed. Also, if the feed is for a
receptacle in a bathroom it should have it's own circuit.