On Mon, 17 Oct 2016 08:26:41 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Monday, October 17, 2016 at 9:21:52 AM UTC-4, stryped wrote:
I have been working on this thing off and on for over a year and the thing is still not running. I started into it last year hoping to be able to use it as a plow for my driveway. I still can not start it. To make it what I thought would be more reliable, I replaced the following: gas tank, spark plug wires, spark plugs, distributor (I broke the tang on my old one), coil, points, fuel bowel, etc. I checked the timing twice.

I rebuilt the carb and installed it this weekend. It started for a minute holding the choke in but then backfired and died and could not restart. (The few times I have gotten it to run in the last year it would run for a minute then backfire violently and not be able to restart). I bought a new carb from TSC as a last ditch effort yesterday. Still no start. Using an old spark plug yesterday grounded to the engine it does fire. If I crank on it long enough it acts like it fires for a split second because the starter disengages but never takes off. I can feel suction on the throat of the carb when cranking, however, I am not so sure the spark plugs are getting gas. It will not start when spraying starting fluid in the throat of the carb. I don't think spraying starting fluid in one of the spark plug holes and reinstalling the spark plug made a difference either.

As a last ditch effort, I checked compression with the throttle control wide open and no choke. Of course the engine was cold as I can not get it started. The following were the results I obtained:
1= 85psi
2= almost 90 psi
3= almost 90 psi
4= almost 80 psi

I then added 5w30 (all I had) motor oil into the spark plug holes one at a time. I probably used too much as I poured from a quart container, the space was tight, and it was getting dark. The following readings were obtained after the addition of oil:
1= 120 psi
2= 130 psi
3= 105 psi
4= 95 psi

I did notice after doing the wet test, oil was coming out of the carb throat.

I replaced the intake exhaust gasket last year because it had a leak.

I am just so frustrated and not sure what to do at this point.

Not at all an expert, but backfiring and not running may be a timing thing.

You could try asking here.
http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/boards.cgi

George H.
My suspicion, given what little "facts" we have is the timing is off
by 180 degrees at the distributor . Pull the plugs. Crank the engine
untill you get a rush of air out of #1 cyl then line up the timing
mark. Turn the ignition on and turn the distributor "backwards" until
the points just open, producing a spark at the coil. Make sure the
rotor points at the number one tower on the cap, and then make sure
the rest of the wires follow the firing order. That will ensure the
timing is close enough to run. Then make sure the spark plugs are
clean and dry with the proper gap, and make sure the spark is hot
enough to jump a 1/4 inch gap in open air. The spark needs to be a hot
blue spark. Make sure the coil is connected in the right direction
(polarity). On a negative ground system the points must be connected
to the negative side of the coil, and on a positive ground, on the
positive side.. Make sure the point gap is set to spec, the points are
clean, and the capacitor (condenser) is good and well grounded..

The final thing is drain ALL of the old gas out and start over with
fresh gasoline. I would use ethanol free gas if possible (usually that
means premium - what you use afterwardss is up to you - but for
initial startup at least, just humor me and use the "good stuff".
Prime the cyls with about 1/4 oz of fuel and start with the throttle
half open.

If you did all that properly the engine WILL start. No ifs, ands, or
buts about it.