On Sun, 18 Sep 2016 09:47:41 +0100, Chris Green wrote:



An architrave switch in a matching box is about the best I can manage
at the moment but they're far bigger than I really want.


Make sure the supply is an isolating one or you may have mains potential
on the 12V output and you will need better switches.

The supply is a 12 volt battery, this is on a boat.

One thing you may have to watch using switches designed for toys is
whether they will reliably handle any breaking any loads on DC , it
doesn't take too many operations for an arc to damage small contacts
or even weld them together.
And you have the corrosion problems cause by a boat being near damp
conditions as well. Though it is well known that putting the word
Marine on anything instantly means it doubles or triples in price
sometimes you do need something designed for a task, nothing as
frustrating as a switch not working when you need it.
perhaps you need to visit or peruse some chandlers or at least use
something from the automotive industry. On cheap switches even if the
contacts are non ferrous a rusted steel spring can mess up operation.

As an aside I lived on a ship for some years and the tumbler
switchers were designed for DC use with fairly substantial contacts
with a spring that sprung them open with some force, houses with DC
mains would have them as well.
Some photos of a similar model a little way down this page.
http://www.electrical-contractor.net..._switches.html

Our circuits were 220V DC though. The sockets were round pin 5amp type
and despite the dymo tape warning that they were DC a succession of
distressed people damaging their radios, shavers etc meant I stuck
some plastic rawlplugs in the holes to stop them being used.

G.Harman