On 9/6/2016 10:28 PM, wrote:
Essentially, it is almost like a regular tee but with an extra side branch to connect a drain hose to it. The bit has broken off completely. Rather than a vertical break in parallel with the main body, it is at an angle so the result wont really need to bear any weight (if you see what I mean).

When you put the mixed epoxy putty onto the plastic, is it supposed to stick to it and therefore stay on or does this only happen once cured?

thanks

Lee.

It might be helpful if you posted a picture via Dropbox or one of the
other similar services.

In my experience epoxy will stick to most things, and the "plumbers"
putty will stick to them even when wet. However, there are a few
plastics which are difficult.

If the epoxy doesn't stick when it is soft, it's unlikely to do so when
it sets (although you might be able to repair some things effectively by
encapsulating them).

Virtually nothing will stick to PTFE, polyethylene, polypropylene, or
silicone rubber, or many surfaces which have experienced silicone
polish. If this unit has been made in a mould, the surface may be
contaminated with mould release agents (often but not always silicones).

Some materials (perspex comes to mind) don't always take epoxy very
well, but car body filler might work very well because the uncured
material will tend to dissolve into the surface.

There are various formulations of epoxy putty, of which one is Milliput.
They are basically made from something like epoxy glue, but with an
inert filler to make them more putty-like, and to make them easier to
shape when cured. With a high epoxy content, they will be stronger and
stick better, but be more difficult to shape, and vice versa.
Conversely, low epoxy mixes will be easier to shape, but be weaker and
less sticky.

One product which seems to have a good reputation is JB Weld, which
contains powdered metal and is supposed to be good for high strength
repairs.