View Single Post
  #29   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
Larry Jaques[_4_] Larry Jaques[_4_] is offline
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 9,025
Default Best O ring Material for drive belt?

On 3 Sep 2016 22:46:41 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2016-09-03, Larry Jaques wrote:
On 3 Sep 2016 04:21:12 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2016-09-02, Gunner Asch wrote:
I have a vibratory cleaner...that uses a "o-ring" type drive belt to
power the bowl. Which material type O ring will last the longest?

I use it to tumble/polish cartridge cases. Originally it came with a
"universal" belt..basically a tube and a splice barrel that one cut to


[ ... ]

Look into your MSC catalog. There is a urethane rubber round
belt material (I've got two sizes, translucent orange and opaque green),
which you buy in rolls. I got them to make belts for a Unimat and a
Jeweler's lathe.)


[ ... ]

O.K. They seem to be called "Fenner drive" belts.


Fenner Drive makes that belt, Don. They also make a segmented belt
which can be used in place of a standard V-belt.


O.K. I know about those, but have never used one. (My lathe


I put some on my bandsaw and it worked well. I have another box
waiting to put on my drill press. I bought the replacement idler
pulley bearing 5 years ago. Time to install it and get the damned
thing running, eh, Gunner? Shelving is first priority in the shop,
though. Deer paths and stacks of everything are not conducive to a
safe working environment. And now I have an extra cubic meter of
handyman tools to store...


runs three parallel belts from the layshaft to the spindle, and I put in
matched belts (ordered from Clausing) to minimize vibration. Not sure
how equal you could make three of those link belts. From what I have
read, they are a bit of a pain to install in crowded places like my
headstock.


Is any belt? Tight confines for working with belts make it a real
beeyotch. I needed 3 hands to put a new serpentine on my Tundra. What
should have been a quick depression of an idler pulley turned into a
1.5 hour nightmare, with jacks, jackstands, removed skid plate, etc.
The open frame of the bandsaw was the complete opposite. I sat down
and had it done in 14 minutes flat, including resizing the belt twice.
The linkbelt is quieter, too, andcauses less vibration after sitting
unused for months on end. It was worth the extra cost.


For your 3/16" diameter, try MSC catalog number "35364579".
They are asking $97.62 for a roll of 100 feet. Seems to have gone up
since I got mine. :-(


Hmm, it shows up at $70.39 when I pull up MSC.



Interesting. It still shows up as $97.62 for me.


Maybe I get the better pricing since I came from the Enco end of
things. It's roughly 30% off.


Are you perhaps logging into the site instead of just opening
a browser on it? If so, you may be seeing discounts. I know that
recently, after looking up a number of things in the website, when I
place an order, I get significantly lower prices on many items. I just
look through the site as someone not logged in, so I guess that I get
the default price for someone who does not have an account there. :-)


Yes, I had to log in to change sites from the old use-enco site.
Register and see if you get the prices, too, if you like.


Secondly...how much tension would be best for this application? How
much stretch should I allow for, when ordering them? Obviously too
much elongation is bad for the belt...what would be appropriate?


The answer is "enough, but not too much", Gunner. "About yea" in the
immortal words of an old mentor. The least amount of tension without
allowing the drive wheel/shaft to spin on the belt will likely give it
the best lifetime. Different rubbers with different finishes require
different tensions in different settings.


I think so. Mount the thing on springs, put an eccentric weight
on a shaft, and spin it. Given the belt drive here, it sounds like the
tension needs to take the shifting on the spring mounts into account, so
perhaps set it up so with maximum spring offset towards the motor, there
is still sufficient tension to keep it from slipping.


Well put, sir.


I've seen some designs posted where the motor itself is mounted
on the bottom of the bowl, so no belt there. But that probably means
greater eccentric weight needed to vibrate the motor too.


And likely shorter motor life, as well. That's gotta be hard on
bearing/bushings.

--
Every day I remind myself that my inner and outer life are
based on the labors of other men, living and dead, and that
I must exert myself in order to give in the same measure as
I have received and am still receiving.
-- Albert Einstein