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Larry Jaques[_4_] Larry Jaques[_4_] is offline
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Default Re-working pry bar

On Sat, 30 Jul 2016 14:23:58 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Bob Engelhardt" wrote in message
...
I just lost a "molding bar" that was a perfect tool. It was shaped
exactly right for prying off molding without beating it up. I can't
find its exact replacement (they're all too blunt), but I'm wondering
if I got one that was close, if I could re-work it to what I want.

By re-work, I mean forge: heat to red hot and shape with a hammer.
I think they are carbon-steel hard, from my experience using one.
Would I have to anneal & re-harden after shaping? I'd rather forge
than grind because I'd like it to be wider also.

Lowe's has one that looks just like the lost one, but isn't:

http://www.lowes.com/pd/M-D-Building...-Bar/999914829

Thanks,
Bob


I ground the ends of a Wonder Bar clone to long thin tapers for prying
off molding.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Stanley-1...515K/100093815


I have the 2pc set, the 15" bars, and the nail pullers.
http://www.harborfreight.com/catalog...sult?q=pry+bar

The nail pullers (multipurpose pry bar) proved to be the best moulding
puller of them all. I, too ground the end to be very thin and sharp.
http://www.harborfreight.com/9-3-4-q...bar-43651.html

Another smaller bar I use is a 5" flat pry bar, with custom tapering
performed by me. Thin and sharp is good.
https://www.zoro.com/dasco-pro-pry-b...22/i/G4391292/

One of these made it into my BOB: http://tinyurl.com/h7ehxl7
It's amazingly strong, sturdy, and stainless. (retapered)

--
It is easier to fool people than it is to
convince people that they have been fooled.
--Mark Twain