DIYbanter - View Single Post - Planing the end grain of a pencil sized tree core

Puckdropper[_2_]

wrote in
:

On Sunday, June 12, 2016 at 7:16:38 PM UTC-4, Puckdroper
wrote:
Easy to duplicate. Take two sticks and place them on either side of
the work to be planed. Somehow (ok, this part isn't so easy) hold
the core steady and run the plane along with the smooth parts of the
plane running on the sticks. A block plane would be ideal, but a
good jack plane will be of some use.

Lee Valley has a variety of planes that are well worth looking at,
from the really inexpensive miniature planes to the unbelievably
(until you try it) expensive ones. The most important thing is
getting a sharp iron. If you can sharpen, you're all set. If not,
well that's another thread or 20... I'll just say for a standard
plane iron the Work Sharp is as close to "no experience but nicely
sharp" as you can get.

If you actually want to save the slice, that will take a little more
effort.

Puckdropper

I have already made a vice for the core. Any recommendations on the
size, price, brand, or angle of the plane? I need to be sure that the
plane will cut the wood without sacrificing too much money to find out
it does not work as well as sandpaper.

I'd go with the block plane. I'd look for one with easy depth
adjustments, some are hard to adjust so woodworkers use a mallet. This
isn't quite as easy as getting a fine adjustment with a proper depth
screw.

You can pick up planes to refurbish for around $5 or $10, or get one
ready to go from Lee Valley for around $20 to $500. It might help to e-
mail Lee Valley and ask which specific plane they're recommend. There's
some low-angle planes that might be worth looking at. I haven't tested
their return policy, but others have said it's really good.

You'll find the angle of the plane tends to set itself naturally. It's
probably on the order of 20-30 degrees, but just go with whatever gives
you the right feel and results.

Puckdropper