View Single Post
  #24   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
[email protected] jcoruddat@gmail.com is offline
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 22
Default Planing the end grain of a pencil sized tree core

On Sunday, June 12, 2016 at 7:16:38 PM UTC-4, wrote:
wrote in
:


For most species I can see the rings despite the saw dust. The reason
I want to cut rather than sand is that it will save time, money, and
provide a better image when looking at rings that are only a few cells
wide. For those who might be confused here is a pictures similar to
what I am trying to achieve:
http://www.wsl.ch/medien/news/video_...1/Picture2.png
http://cfile6.uf.tistory.com/image/2...56826992205E1A


Easy to duplicate. Take two sticks and place them on either side of the
work to be planed. Somehow (ok, this part isn't so easy) hold the core
steady and run the plane along with the smooth parts of the plane running
on the sticks. A block plane would be ideal, but a good jack plane will
be of some use.

Lee Valley has a variety of planes that are well worth looking at, from
the really inexpensive miniature planes to the unbelievably (until you
try it) expensive ones. The most important thing is getting a sharp
iron. If you can sharpen, you're all set. If not, well that's another
thread or 20... I'll just say for a standard plane iron the Work Sharp is
as close to "no experience but nicely sharp" as you can get.

If you actually want to save the slice, that will take a little more
effort.

Puckdropper


I have already made a vice for the core. Any recommendations on the size, price, brand, or angle of the plane? I need to be sure that the plane will cut the wood without sacrificing too much money to find out it does not work as well as sandpaper.