On 10/05/2016 17:03, wrote:
On Tue, 10 May 2016 14:52:24 +0100, N_Cook wrote:

On 10/05/2016 13:32, wrote:
On Tuesday, May 10, 2016 at 6:49:16 AM UTC-4, N_Cook wrote:
This is the bruxsh material, wrong angle to see any 2/3 fingers
http://pacificstereo.net/motor/Mabuchi%20brushes.jpg

OK - that is a "between" motor after what I thought you were discussing:

http://www.gasolinealleyantiques.com...rg/lind-t1.jpg Look at the motor pictured on the box. These used spring-bronze brushes.

Your pictured motor is a substantial improvement over the older stuff, and those brushes are plated spring steel. As I remember, the plating was for wear, and the little black bits were for vibration damping. This goes back to my slot-car days, too long ago to admit to in cold blood. So I am not sure of the material and type of plating. I suspect a flash rather than a true 3-metal process - that would be too thick and too costly. With that in mind, I suspect tin as the material.

If you are looking for a stock material for making new ones, K&S has a line of hobby sheet goods all the way down to 40 gauge (0.0055") that would do. Typically their sheets sell in the US$7-10 range. The really thin stuff may be cut with sewing sheers, so there is no roll at the edge. You really don't need the tin as a somewhat shortened service life is of less moment given a near infinite supply of material.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA


I reckon it might be stainless steel, as in the almost foil thickness
you find in FDs and HDs . The original is spot welded to brass
standoffs, which tin would not necessarily require. I suspect st/st
would take arcing better.
Any way to avoid swaging something soderable to st/st fiddley foil, I'm
trying one of the phosphor-bronze and graphite brushes , there is enough
room to solder 3mm offset from the original line, to allow for the brush
thickness. Motor run for a couple of hours without hiccough
They might also be nickle, like the stuff used for connecting cells
together in battery packs.
Eric


I always thought that was stainless steel as was the casing.
My hot air gun has survived hundreds of extra hours of use, by crimping
the broken ends of the heater wire with bits of that strip, would nickel
survive that?