On Tue, 3 May 2016 04:46:25 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Monday, May 2, 2016 at 9:06:34 PM UTC-4, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

This Zebra strip measures about 1K ohms:
http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/pics/Fluke%208060a/Fluke-8060a-LCD-1.jpg

while this one measures about 5 ohms:
http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/pics/Fluke%208060a/Fluke-8060a-LCD-2.jpg

Measuring the resistance was a PITA. The problem was determining
whether I was measuring the resistance of one contact, or a bunch of
them in parallel.

The conductors are *very* dense in this particular zebra strip and
I'd guess that there's at a minimum 10 conductors presented across
the large pads on the boards they make contact with, so I'd venture
that if they're 5 ohms each and 10 or more are paralleled across
the pads, a wire jumper is just fine.

Yep. I can measure the resistance from PCB pad to pad in that area
if you want. However, it will need to wait a few days. Bizzeee.

I had quite a struggle reassembling the LCD display. The LCD glass
fits into a slot of sorts in the plastic frame that requires the Zebra
strip to be compressed. Insert just the glass LCD plate first and use
brute force to compress the Zebra strip. Then, slide in the plastic
screen protector and frame. If anyone has a better way, I would be
interested.

After it takes it's IPA bath I'll reassemble and see where I'm at.
Thanks for the information!

The article at:
http://mrmodemhead.com/blog/fluke-8060a-repair/
(near the bottom) says to let it dry for a few hours after an alcohol
bath. I've had the same experience. Alcohol absorbs moisture from
the air and will dump this moisture onto the PCB during cleaning. It
takes a while to evaporate.

If the meter turns out OK, I'll probably pick up a DOA meter on ebay
for parts, including the missing button. If the meter still is a bit
wonky, I'll remove the switch pack and give it an ultrasonic bath.

I've destroyed a few two-way radios using a 10 watt ultrasonic
cleaner. It tends to kill semiconductor devices with unsupported wire
bonds to the chip. I suggest using a brush instead. A brush doesn't
get under IC sockets and overhanging components, so I like flood the
area with alcohol, let it sit for about 30 seconds, and blow it out
with compressed air. Not the best way, but better than shaking the
meter to death. I haven't done too many DVM's so I don't know what a
solvent bath will do the rotary switch.

The bottom of my display looks exactly like yours. Are you sure
this is abnormal? The bottom edge is where the round zebra strip
contacts the LCD electrically on the back side, so maybe that thicker
area is normal. The border around the entire LCD display is black
although much thinner.

No, I'm not sure. My eyesight isn't that great any more. I've seen a
much more extreme black edge smear on other Fluke LCD displays. Here's
an 8020A display disassembled:
http://s1259.photobucket.com/user/mrmodemhead/media/Fluke%208020B/F8020B_018.jpg.html
It has a black border, but it's very different from the 8060a:
http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/pics/Fluke%208060a/Fluke-8060a-LCD-1.jpg

You might be right as the black line seems rather consistent instead
of the creeping black blob caused by case leakage. I'll put it under
the microscope later and double check. This is what it *MIGHT* look
like eventually:
http://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=31080&d=1260895739
http://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/recovery-of-an-old-fluke-8020a-with-a-bad-lcd/?action=dlattach;attach=5445
http://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/just-got-my-'new'-multimeter-the-family-become-larger/?action=dlattach;attach=1305;image

Still looking for the missing case screws. No luck so far.

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558