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N_Cook

On 03/05/2016 13:25, wrote:
On Monday, May 2, 2016 at 2:09:22 PM UTC-4, Ian Field wrote:
wrote in message
...
On Saturday, April 30, 2016 at 2:00:53 PM UTC-4, Jon Elson wrote:
Ralph Mowery wrote:

As it is just for my own use at home I am not worried about the legal
Rohs part.
OK, just for your own use, you can do repairs with PbSn solder on
assemblies
made originally with Pb free. I do this all the time, never had a
problem.

Me too, the amalgamate talk makes me wonder though.

Reworking lead free with 60/40 sometimes gives a grainy finish that looks
even more dodgy than the original lead free.

When I was in TV repair, most Asian manufacturers had converted before most
people in the UK had even heard of RoHS. (but it took the Asian
manufacturers a lot longer to get it right).

My introduction to lead free solder was a steady stream of TVs with bizzare
random faults that defied any attempt at logical diagnosis - going over the
soldering fixed them as if by magic.

With Hitachi sets; you could push down on a component and the whole solder
fillet would detach from the other side, that revealed a thin black layer of
oxide on the copper.

On Sony sets; the solder looked as good as lead free ever can - but going
over the soldering fixed over 90% of all faults.

During that time I routinely used 60/40 - I didn't get many bounced repairs,
and not many of those had anything to do with solder.

Thanks Ian, I'm a bit confused by your response though.
It's starts by saying 60/40 on lead free is dodgy,
and ends by saying you had few problems when using it.

George H.

60/40 on lead free is dodgy, PbF is dodgey, PbF on PbF is dodgey, SAC on
PbF is dodgey, you do your own thing with fingers crossed and monitor
for bouncers over the next few years.