On Thu, 28 Apr 2016 06:54:05 -0500, CRNG wrote:

Well done. It's good to see that kind of community-based planning,
cooperation and action.

Thanks for noticing that we all work together (as Jeff Liebermann would
know, we stick together in the mountains).

I called the "circuit board medics" at 800-547-2049 last week who
said that an F28 on the Whirlpool duet sport washer is almost always
a bad motor control board.

This was before I had taken out the MCU and found it burnt, so, they're
right. In hindsight, if I had only known that, I wouldn't have removed
both the CCU and the EMI filter (I broke a wire on the CCU trying to get
it out, for example).
http://i.cubeupload.com/k1m0mV.jpg

So, to help others.
1. If you get an F28 on the Whirlpool duet sport WFW8410SW, it's almost
always the motor control board.
2. Wiggle the blue wires on both the motor control board and the CCU,
but if that doesn't solve the problem, then you have to remove the
motor control board.
3. To remove the MCU, you have to remove the 16 quarter-inch hexhead
screws holding the back plate in place.
4. It's advised to also remove the lower cross brace (two more screws).
5. Some people remove the top of the shock absorber but I left it in place.
6. Then you have to cut or dig out the 4 tie wraps holding the harnesses
to the MCU plastic covering.
7. Then you have to be a genius or a magician to put a screwdriver under
the MCU white box and pry it up and then slide the MCU toward the
front of the washer, to get it to release its grip.
8. Then you remove all the wire connections & pull it out from the
bottom of the Whirlpool duet sport washer.
9. Once you pry open (and probably break) the crappy plastic (they
really use really really really brittle plastic), you will see
the scorch marks as shown below.
http://i.cubeupload.com/k1m0mV.jpg

At this point, you put the MMU back in its plastic case, and you remove
the CCU (if desired) and you ship both of those boards to the rebuilders
at "Circuit Board Medics" 800-547-2049x3) at your cost. They told me
that USPS is the least responsible, so use UPS or Fedex.

Exclusive of your costs to ship to them, the charges a
A. Exchange rebuilt MCU = $175 ($160 + $15 shipping + $100 core charge)
B. Rebuild your MCU = $145 ($130 + $15 return shipping)

They give you a 1-year warranty and they will test both boards for
free, just in case my totally burned out MCU isn't the real problem.
http://i.cubeupload.com/xRnjw9.jpg

Here's a picture of my CCU, which seems to be in OK shape:
http://i.cubeupload.com/zBAmq5.jpg

Unless I find a better deal than ~$150, I think I'll have them rebuild
my board. A brand-new washer is only four or five times that at about
$600 to $800, so, it's an expensive enough repair to wonder if I should
just buy a new washer instead.

Nonetheless, I don't have much money lately (being retired is costing
me more than I thought, especially with two families living under the
same household now, with my sister and her kids living with me), so,
I will just look to see if I can find a new board for around that same
price.

Otherwise, I'd suggest the rebuilders as they seem competent.