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Default Fluke 8060a meter interconnect strip *update working-- sorta*

On Sunday, May 1, 2016 at 5:53:42 PM UTC-4, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Sun, 1 May 2016 12:41:20 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

Anyone know the approximate resistance of the strip?


Some photos of the insides of an 8024a, which is fairly close in
construction to an 8060a.
http://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/fluke-8024b-33-years-old-and-still-going-strong!-beware-3mb-photos/
The ribbon cable:
http://s193.photobucket.com/user/Bl4ckW0lfi3/media/Fluke8024B-09_zps4b433951.jpg.html
The ribbon cable between the two boards is made from screened
graphite, which tends to crack if flexed. I found a similar ribbon
cable, but made from flattened copper wire that looked more reliable.
I removed the original ribbon cable, clamped in the new cable, and
after a bit of jiggling, got it to make a connection without
soldering. Once it was working, I used hot melt glue to hold it in
place. I suppose soldering would have been easier, but at the time, I
didn't want to wreck the meter.



--
Jeff Liebermann

150 Felker St #D
http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558



Other than the shape of the boards, they're not much alike. The 8060 has no flexible membrane circuit.

For the heck of it, I took a straight edge and a sharp razor and removed about a 16th from both sides of the rubber conductive strip, and still no continuity whatsoever, so I hard wired the display.

It now starts, boots, and passes the power up test. The display is clear and has full contrast.

The problem is that it's reading voltages and resistances that don't exist, even though it does read my test voltages and resistances. I guess I have to take this apart again and do a better job of cleaning the electrolyte off the board.

The link posted by an earlier poster shows problems with leakage below the main chip/socket only. If I knew that would be the only problem to address, I'd pull the socket and try it. The problem is is that every individual solution requires undoing the display hardwire, so I'm trying to formulate a plan to effectively clean this in one shot.

John
John