Hi David,
David wrote:
"Dave Liquorice" wrote:
There has been some standardisation on back plates over recent
years. One of the makers has a nice free booklet that details old
controllers and their wiring and how to wire up to (their) new
controllers. This is from Horstmann I think.
I think that although the back plates are pretty standardised now,
unfortunately they weren't when the Danfoss mechanical timer was
designed. I remember years ago trying to do what you want to, and in
the absence of any decent wiring instructions I found the whole jumble
of wires behind the controller so confusing I ended up refitting the
Danfoss and giving up on the idea!
Been there, and think I've figured out what the wiring is doing.
There's L, N, and E supplied through a fused switch. L and N supply 5
and 6 on the Danfoss timer.
1 switched live output
2 unused
3 switched live input, connected from 6
4 earth, not connected - is this normal?
5 neutral
6 live
The LNE also continue up from the kitchen to the control unit in the
airing cupboard. From there another cable comes down which is used for
L, N, and E for the boiler plus a pump-overrun live, and a switched
live.
Have a browse around www.tlc-direct.co.uk though - they have some very
useful reference material on CH timers amongst other things.
Thanks, I found this helpful. They have two `Wire-in Time Clocks, Fused
and Switched' --
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Ind...s_1/index.html
-- the 7 day one, FST17 seems to have 6 on/offs a day.
They provide a PDF of the installation instructions that covers both the
FST11 (24 hour) and FST17 (7 day) --
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Technica...iths/FST11.pdf
(470KB) -- which says "A normal switched output is available as well as
the timeswitch output" and refers to Fig. 3. But where's the "normal
switched output" as terminal 1 is the timeswitched live?
Apart from that, it would seem suitable, no? I don't need the fused
switch aspect since there's already one sitting next to the Danfoss
timer but I guess two in series won't do any harm. Alternatively, I
could replace the existed fused switch with the FST17 and just leave the
Danfoss sitting there unused, assuming the cables will reach.
Sam.