On 2016-03-26, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sat, 26 Mar 2016 00:34:59 -0400, wrote:

On Fri, 25 Mar 2016 21:13:59 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Wed, 23 Mar 2016 23:37:59 -0400, wrote:

On Wed, 23 Mar 2016 16:21:11 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Mon, 21 Mar 2016 20:02:25 -0500, Ignoramus3828
wrote:

I need to spray used oil on a number of truck frames etc.

I would like to know what is a good solution, preferably compressor
driven, that would make a good spray pattern and preferably not too
much overspray.

I am not interested in opinions about advantages and disadvantages of
used oil spraying, I just want to know how to spray it.

Besides it probably being illegal in Illinoise and salt/water/dust
would likely quickly erase it from the frame, MOST people use a
rubberized undercoating for frames and underbodies, Ig. Why not
recycle the oil and steamclean + undercoat your trucks, for a
once-in-a-lifetime fix?

Otherwise, what about using an existing aerator spray tip and
adjusting the air pressure to control the overspray? Olive oil can be
sprayed with a hand-pump and regular paint spray can nozzle. Grab a
magnifying glass and look at pressure washer or paint gun tips for
clues into spray containment. It's possible that an HVLP paint
sprayer might work, so you might give that a try, too.
http://tinyurl.com/3muqz79


I dislike the oil spray concept from an eco standpoint, and I'm
surprised it isn't illegal. Where's the freakin' EPA now? Watch them
fine a person $50k for leaking a quart of oil onto the ground, but
they let 1,000,000 people leak oil onto the street and flow into lakes
and sewer systems? Go figure!
Rubberized undercoating guarantees the vehicle WILL rust as soon as
ithe rubber film is damaged - and it WILL be damaged.

So if the protectant is damaged, it will rust? Who would have ever
guessed that? thud



So, what do you like? Do you prefer cathodic protection? Blue
glitter wands? What?
I much prefer a "self healing" protection - like a waxy oil. A mix a
friend of mine uses is a mix of a vegetable oil, beeswax and lanolin.-
applied warm.

The old Waxoyl product worked pretty good. Krown rustproofing is good.
So is RustChek

My 20 year old Ford is virtually rust free - treated with RustChek

Oregon uses crushed clay roof tiles and sand instead of salt, at least
this far down. My '07 Tundra has no rust or salt corrosion, either.


As far as the cathodic protection, what you are buying is an insurance
policy and a little box of snake oil.

Pricy little box.


A friend's 2007 GMC pickup has had aver $5000 worth of bodywork done
under the rust protection warranty. His car, which also has one, has
had over $3000 worth of rust repair done (I think it's a 2005 Chev)

Having grown up in sunny SoCal (+ 1.5 years in Aridzona), I know
nothing about rust except what I've seen and read. What do those
insurance policies cost?


My 2002 Taurus, treated with Waxoyl from new and Krowned twice, has
has no rust repair, and has no rust showing and my 96 Ranger has had
one tiny spot repaired on the left rear fender - a spot the size of a
quarter.

Since you have to reapply oils and waxes regularly, why wouldn't it be
cheaper to find and repair the little nicks in the rubberized
undercoating at the same schedule?


Larry, please get back into the real world, spraying oil is cheaper
than anything!