Just curious, do you use a sanding belt or disc? What grit?

Bill

On Sunday, March 13, 2016 at 1:18:21 AM UTC-5, wrote:
Bill Leonhardt wrote in
:

Hello Group,

My apologies. I used to follow this group, but I thought it folded.
On a whim, I look today and I'm glad to see it's still alive. Perhaps
you can help me with a turning tool question. I will also post to
rec.woodworking.

I have three sets of full size (not for pen turning) turning tools. I
don't know their history as I got each set from descendants of the
original owners. I am trying to identify whether they have good steel
and are worth keeping for my future turning aspirations. In the
future, I expect to turn some furniture parts, a few bowls, but
turning will not be the main part of my woodworking efforts.

I think the sets are pre-1980s and probably pre-1970s or even 1960s.
They are described as follows:

Set1 (9 tools) - These have a label on the handle that says
"Craftsman" (ala Sears) and that label could be a decal. It is well
attached. The handles are wood and stained red. The steel is dull
and looks, to the uneducated eye, as the same as I see on old, quality
chisels. No markings on the steel.

Set2 (8tools) - These have a blue paper label on natural wood handles
that says "Marples Made in Sheffield England". The steel is bright
and some are marked (surface printed) with both imperial and metric
sizes.

Set3 (8 tools) - These have the brand stamped into both the steel and
handle, which is natural wood. The lettering says "Disston USA" with
a keystone logo. The letters and logo in the handle are colored red.
The steel is bright.

These all have some light surface rust, which should clean up fine,
however the rust on the Craftsman tools gives me more a feeling of
quality steel (gut feeling, not sure why).

Are there ways that I can evaluate these sets to determine if they
have good steel and are worth keeping and using? Any insight you can
provide is much appreciated.

Thanks,

Bill Leonhardt

I've got some Menards cheapies that work fine. They don't hold an edge
for very long, but sharpening is just part of woodturning. One way to
figure out how good the steel is for woodturning is to sharpen a tool and
use it. I use a grinder to form the majority of the edge and a sander to
do the rest. Once I get the edge I want, it takes more time to walk to
the sander than it does to renew the edge.

Grab the one that's got the profile you want, give it a pass on the
sander, and have fun!

Puckdropper