On Saturday, February 27, 2016 at 12:07:15 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Sat, 27 Feb 2016 05:50:24 -0000 (UTC), HerHusband
wrote:

I haven't followed this conversation,
Obviously.

Yep, I only have partial information to go on.

So far, you're the only one here who thinks it's simple, with no
major code problems.

It is not a complicated circuit, but yes there are code issues to consider.

1. It is standard practice in remodel work to extend a circuit for a new
outlet or fixture. The biggest issue I can think of would be box fill
requirements in the source box. I did mention the number of cables and size
of the box as a factor in my initial reply.

2. Wire gauge. I DID ask the OP "why" they were using 12 gauge wire.
Obviously, if the circuit is protected by a 20 amp breaker you would need
to use 12 gauge wire on that circuit (14 gauge wire could overheat before
the 20A breaker would trip). Otherwise, 14 gauge wire would be more than
adequate for an LED fixture.

3. Obviously, you can't use standard lamp cord inside a wall. You would
need to use rated cable such as Romex.

4. Connection at the lamp. Ideally the fixture would be designed for hard
wiring, with a proper cable clamp and space in the fixture to make
connections with wire nuts. Unfortunately, many undercabinet fixtures are
made to plug in. The obvious solution would be to install an outlet near
the fixture where the lamp could be plugged in. Unless the lamp
manufacturer provides a certified junction box of some type, there aren't
many low profile options that can fit under a cabinet.

My use of crimp connectors is certainly "NOT" code compliant, but done
properly it is a safe installation as long as the splice is not buried in a
wall and the cables are properly secured.


Crimp connections are legal splices if used in the proper enclosure.
I see the real issue with this installation is the cord to the lamp.
This is using the provisions of "fixture wires" that allow an 18 gauge
conductor to be hard wired to a branch circuit. Typically that will be
in a box that is part of the listed product or where the fixture
canopy acts as the cover for a regular device box.
If he ran this cord to a surface mounted box and used a suitable entry
connector I doubt any inspector would have a problem with it but if
this cord goes into a wall, it is clearly a violation.

Thank you! I was hoping you'd respond. :-)

You have essentially confirmed what I considered the main issue with this
installation: That pesky flexible cord.

Could the cord be attached to the bottom of a cabinet, go through a hole
in the cabinet bottom and into a junction box inside the cabinet? From
there a properly sized run of Romex could go into the wall and to the source.

I suggest this as means to avoid having a surface mounted box out in the open.