On Monday, February 22, 2016 at 11:24:31 PM UTC-5, Micky wrote:


This sort of contradicts that idea, but I still can't imagine selling
something that requires wires coming out of the wall beside or through
the wall plate.

I can pretty much guarantee that the install instructions don't say
to do it that way. The correct way would be to wire it into a
junction box and I would hope that's what the instructions would say.



I've done that with my TV co-ax, with my bathroom
speaker wires, and with an telephone extension flashing light (for
when the bell is off but I'm awake, so I'll know the phone is
ringing.) I certainly wouldn't do it with 110V.

The output specs are "24V, max 14.7W"

IOW max 0.6 amps output.

FWIW, if it outputs 14.7w, the input actually used is less than
twice** that, less than 1.2 amps. But if the wires short to each
other or ground, you'll see a spark far bigger than that.


Wrong concept here. What you look at is *power* on both sides.
The secondary is 15W, that means ideally, the primary is 15W,
giving a current of 125ma at 120V. It will be a bit more than
that because of losses, but that's the conversion concept.

Using your method, a battery charger that supplies 25A, would be
pulling less than 50A? It sure would be less than 50A, because it's
on the order of 2.5A @ 120V



**Twice would mean only 50% efficiency, and transformers are better
than that.


See above. You're using equal currents on both sides, when it's
actually equal power.