On 1/6/2016 12:29 PM, Swingman wrote:
On 1/5/2016 11:26 PM, OFWW wrote:
Actually, seeing your advice, using the dado, for your cabinets was
always in the back of my mind, telling me you were doing it for a
reason. The bottoms of my dado's always seemed to me to need clean up,
and I can get a plane that would do that just fine. But I gathered
from Leon, IIRC, that it really isn't that big of a deal. But I'd like
to feel comfortable about the clean up before I commit to it. And
actually when thinking about it, a plane might just take too much off
it I overworked it, and end up throwing off my dimensions and cause
things not to fit right.
Odd, all the video's I watched on people cutting dado's and no one
spoke much, if anything about cleaning up the bottom of a dado.
As long as the depth of the dado/groove is consistent from one end to
the other, whether the bottom is pretty or not is irrelevant.
With a good dado stack, and a good table saw to mount it on (no worn or
uneven arbor and/or no runout) that is not usually a problem.
What kind of Dado stack do you have? Good place to spend your money When
you consider the cost of a good tool with regard to the overall cost of
the project ... and the time, effort and waste inherent with an inferior
one.
Even with good equipment/tools, probably the biggest problem you'll face
with dadoes in cabinet parts is the above mentioned inconsistent depth,
usually the result of bowed material when insufficient, downward
pressure is exerted as the material passes over the blade.
That is something we alwaysy check after each pass, regardless.
So when making drawers, should I stick to making just a few at a time,
or should I use a locking bit, half lap, or? Although I have some of
the tools for making a dovetails, I have virtually no experience in
that. I have made other simple box joints but I would like the drawers
to be strong
Depends upon your budget. A dovetail drawer will give both strength and
appearance.
If appearance is secondary, then a locking rabbet joint, which can be
done on the table saw or router, makes a nice looking drawer, with
sufficient strength for most any kitchen application.
So I guess the questions I have now are, using dado's how clean should
the bottom of the dado be, if it is important. Should the dado be cut
1/3 the thickness of the board it is seating into. And if it is wisest
to pin the joints after gluing before one removes the clamps.
Again, your overriding concern is a consistent depth of the dado/groove
throughout it length.
If I may offer something to watch for when cutting grooves/dado's.
Especially with longer stock but just as important with any stock
inspect your groves/dado's to insure that you cut full depth the entire
length of the cut. Often the wood can lift and you will not get a full
depth cut. Running the pieces through a time or two again typically
insures a consistent depth though the entire cut.
I cut these type joints/groves/dado's all the time and almost always
encounter shallow passes. So that is how I know this. ;~)
Also just as important is to use stock that is as flat as possible and
the use of feather boards to insure that the stock remains flat against
the fence through out the cut is advised.
If you don't have that because of the tool, then you need a better tool.
Regarding FF's I do have the Kreg pocket kit and have learned how to
use it, but I am not adverse to joining it another way, like dowels or
M&T or biscuits. I don't have the new setup by that expensive tool
company, and I would probably be dead before I would even get a decent
ROI on any of their tools. IYKWIM. 
Search around on some of the New Yankee Workshop videos. Norm had a few
shows where he built his FF cabinetry using biscuits. Take a look and
see if something like that might fit your budget and tools.