On 1/5/2016 11:26 PM, OFWW wrote:

Should the dado be cut
1/3 the thickness of the board it is seating into.

That'll work and is a good guide. For cabinetry in kitchens and baths I
generally do 1/4" deep dado/groove in 3/4 stock.

On occasion, mostly for fixed shelving, especially an intermediate shelf
that adds structural rigidity to the casework, I might go to 3/8" deep
dado/groove.

And if it is wisest
to pin the joints after gluing before one removes the clamps

With kitchen and bath cabinets, where there will be sheer force applied
to wall cabinet components; and with unknown future loads on the base
cabinets (including heavy stone countertops); and where you're generally
attaching hardwood to a plywood case; or plywood end panels to plywood
floors; I'm of BOTH glue and carefully applied nailgun persuasion.

It is rare that I don't both glue and finish nail (16ga/1 1/2") kitchen
cabinet components joined with dadoes/grooves ... the face frames to
cabinet box; and the end panels to the floors ... therein lies all that
blue tape you see to help keep the nail hole filler from bleeding over.
Properly done, with the right filler, the nail holes basically disappear
after finishing.

Literally hundreds of stained cabinetry and I have never once had anyone
mention ever seeing a nail hole in a stained face frame.

Take the time to orient the nail head to the grain direction, and use a
filler that will take stain well from experience.

Whether you use both glue, and some other type faster in conjunction
with the glue, depends upon the intended use of the piece.

Furniture, where it's hardwood to hardwood, and there is not going to be
heavy weight/extraordinary sheer force applied, I almost always just use
glue by itself.

Lots of dadoed joinery here in this project, with both plywood and
hardwood as primary material, and no nails on the visible casework and
"face frame":

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...?noredirect=1#

(I also included that link above because you mentioned in a previous
post about making angled cabinets)

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