OK, finally got the parts in the post.... fitted them and it's now dead but
does not blow the fuse any more. Every thing is plugged back in.
One thing I did notice was that the circuit diagram shows TR15 as S2000AF,
but the one I took out of the circuit was an S2000N. I ordered and fitted
the S2000AF...

I also replaced the TDA4601 and C103 like you said and repaired some dry
joints.

Any pointers on where to check next ?

Thanks again,

Adam

PS, I am a service engineer working on electrical equipment, copiers,
printers, computers etc, but not trained on TV's.






Perhaps I should have pointed out that if you're not familiar with
servicing
switch mode power supplies then it's advisable to take extreme care, even
when disconnected from the mains, as some of the larger capacitors can
stay
charged up with circa 300v for a quite a lengthy period, and are therefore
capable of giving a serious electric-shock.

In this case C100 has a couple of bleed resistors across it, but I must
emphasise once again you should still be very careful. whilst I don't mind
offering advice, if you have any doubts concerning your ability or issues
of
safety, then I would strongly recommend that you leave it to a qualified
technician to carry out the repair for you.

I shouldn't think that you would find any problems with R153/4 the
fuseable
resistors, the little blue positor can cause intermittent start-up or
destruction of the control chip, but they don't often give problems [like
the earlier white ones] however they can/do often suffer from dry joints.

The MELF means that it's a metal film resistor which will probably be OK,
however high value resistors in power supplies are 'always' worth checking
as routine, as in some circumstances open circuit ones can cause the
immediate destruction of all those nice new components you to took all
that
time and trouble to replace!

I think it's highly unlikely that PTC1will cause the the destruction of
the
bridge rectifier and output transistor, normal symptoms are patches of
colour on the screen plus mains fuse blowing, if you're uncertain it won't
hurt to leave out during testing, usually when they're defective in the
majority of cases, shaking it will produce a rattling noise inside.




Adam

As you don't show the complete circuit it's difficult to see where
the
[pin
nine] start-up voltage derives from, presumably from an arm of the
bridge
rectifier via a resistor/s, or a small positor which can all cause
problems.

I don't have a circuit diagram to hand, but could probably dig one out
tomorrow, however it would be on the left-hand side of the diagram if
you
trace back from pin nine of the 4601.