On 12/24/15 10:38 AM, Leon wrote:
On 12/24/2015 10:07 AM, OFWW wrote:
On Thu, 24 Dec 2015 06:53:08 -0600, Leon
wrote:

OFWW wrote:
On Wed, 23 Dec 2015 10:54:54 -0600, Swingman
wrote:

On 12/22/2015 5:57 PM, OFWW wrote:

As to Dado's in the FF, is it only on the stiles/vertical's
or on both? Glue only, or Glue and ?

NOTE: In production cabinet making the parts that are the
_floor_ and _top_ of a cabinet (since they are usually the
same dimension, and batch cut at the same time) are often
singularly called a "floor" in the parts list for the
cabinets.

Dadoes/grooves are cut in the back side of both stiles of the
face frame to accept the front edge of the end panels.

Dadoes/grooves are cut in the back side of both top and
bottom rails of the face frame of a wall cabinet to accept
the front edge of the "floors" (both a top and bottom).

(dadoes/grooves are generally cut in only the bottom rail of
a base cabinet, as a base cabinet in traditional face frame
cabinets often only has a single bottom/floor).

All these joins are usually glued, and also often nailed,
into the dadoes/grooves cut into both the face frame and end
panels.

Here's an exploded view of typical "shop built" face frame
wall cabinet construction, as above.

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...9 55022575538



Thank you for the full explanation as well as the picture to
re enforce what you said.

Is glue only on the FF to the Cabinet unwise?


No, if your FF attaches with dado's on the bottom rail to the
bottom of the cabinet and with groves on the stiles to the
cabinet sides and or inner dividers.

BUT typically when building a load of kitchen cabinets adding
nails and or screws eliminates the need for clamps while the glue
dries and greatly speeds production.

I'll give you a tip here. If you nail to attach, place a piece
of masking tape at the exact spot you intend to place a nail.
Then nail through the tape and then putty the nail hole before
removing the tape. After the putty dries remove the tape and
sand. The tape prevents the putty from filling the wood grain
around the nail hole.


It took me a minute to figure out the tip, but cool! What you are
saying is that the surrounding wood pattern is preserved.

That is absolutely correct!


What type of tape do you use for this? The blue stuff?

What ever will lift off after a period of time, typically blue.


Tape|Shoot|Putty|remove tape|Sand=Sweet

Yes, and the tape reminds you where the holes are that need to be
filled and sanded.


Now if you want to be anal, ;~) Fast Cap sells tape for this very
purpose with nail hole pre made..... You just have to shoot the nail
in the hole provided. LOL

https://www.fastcap.com/estore/pc/vi...3&idcategory=0

I think I could sell someone the Brooklyn bridge if I could sell
this. Why on earth would you want to aim for preformed holes???


I don't know what I enjoyed more, the great tip from Leon or the laugh I
got from seeing that the Fastcap nail hole tape was actually a real
product and not an April Fool's joke.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply