On Thursday, December 10, 2015 at 11:05:57 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On Thu, 10 Dec 2015 04:37:17 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

On Wednesday, December 9, 2015 at 8:25:17 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Wed, 9 Dec 2015 15:23:15 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:


Taken literally, that would imply that the well should not be connected
to the grounding system. And also that only one ground rod should be used.
The question was if the well pipe should also be part of the grounding system
and NEC says "yes".

I have not read the NEC code in years and dont have a current book, but
even in the 90's they required at least 2 ground rods. Some areas are
different, this depends on soil conditions, and local codes too. So
requiring 3 or more rods is possible.

More ground rods, or a well casing, or any other metal contacting the
soil just adds to the "system". When it comes to grounding, MORE IS
BETTER. Just as long as they all go to the ground buss (bar) inside the
main breaker panel.

Like someone else said, yes, gas pipes, phone system, cable tv lines,
and so on, all should be grounded too. Even metal siding should be.

I have worked on a trailer house (mobile home), and that came equipped
with #6 copper wire from the main breaker box, which was clamped to the
steel beam frame under the trailer. The siding was also connected to
that steel frame, as well as the phone connection box, and gas pipes,
furnace ducts, and so on. Under the trailer there were a lot of ground
wires and all of them went to that steel frame. All of this was
original, and part of the trailer when it was built in the factory
(except for the phone line ground, which was probably added by the phone
company) (this was a USED trailer). When I got the trailer, intended to
be a guest house, I ran power to it, and put in 2 ground rods, then ran
#6 copper from those rods directly to the breaker box. There was already
the wire that went to the steel frame, from the box, but rather than
clamp these wires together, I had plenty of wire to just go direct to
the box. Trailer houses are not always built as well as regular houses,
but they surely did a good job of grounding this one. (Probably required
by code when they built it).

To the OP, your electrician should have put a jumper across that hose.
You could call him back, but for the cost of 2 clamps and a foot of
wire, why bother. If you add a softener, be sure to put a jumper wire
there too. (if there are non-metal pieces that would break the
continuous ground).

I think to meet code what actually needs to happen is he needs an
uninterrupted wire from the grounding system he already has to the
pipe going to the well. As it exists now, he has a ground system
of 2 or 3 rods and that is bonded to the house water system on the
house side of a plastic pipe that separates it from the well. If
he just jumpers across that, then he doesn't have a continuous wire
to the well pipe, it's in two segements, which I don't believe is
allowed. Gfre?

You only need a continuous conductor to the primary grounding
electrode. You can connect "bonding jumpers" with any listed method as
long as each path is using the required size wire.

This is from the NEC handbook

http://gfretwell.com/electrical/250%20exibit%2031.jpg

(extra credit if you catch the absurd thing in the code) ;-)

The #2 or better for the ground ring, while everything else is #4?
Other than that, I give up.