Thread: GFCI's
View Single Post
  #85   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
Don Y[_3_] Don Y[_3_] is offline
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 2,879
Default GFCI's

On 12/3/2015 2:33 PM, wrote:

On my QO panel it's easy - neutral buss on both sides. Putting in the
GFCI I had to extend the neutral because the sparky that replaced the
panel didn't run the neutrals for the breakers on the one side to the
same side as the breaker - he put all the neutrals on the "short"
side. VERY neet job - but made it difficult to install GFCI breakers
in the panel.


In our case, the ground/neutral bus is located on the meter side of
the panel. I.e., to gain access, you have to expose the AC mains
on the output of the meter connection/input to main disconnect/output
of main disconnect.

Of course, the bus bar is mounted against the rear of the panel,
so you have to reach *into* the panel (with screwdriver) to open
the lockdown screws in the bar. Then, reach in with your *fingers*
to thread the neutral wire (or, neutral pigtail!) under the
lockdown screw -- before tightening it.

So, all of the GFCI's must be located at the top of the loadcenter
side of the panel -- else their pigtails won't reach the grounding
bar! And, all the neutrals have to work their way up to the top
of the box where they can cross over to the meter side to tie into
the ground *and* neutral!

I.e., I don't like opening that side of the box! :

You can replace a breaker just by prying the "tongue" side loose.
Then, with the breaker IN YOUR HAND, you can leisurely remove the
hot conductor from it! (and neutral, if a GFCI). You don't have to
make any penetration into the box (and the bus bars waiting there!)

OTOH, if you opt to replace a GFCI with a non-GFCI, you now have
to figure out how to get the branch circuit's neutral over
to the meter side of the box!

(and, if you're only doing this to test a theory, you look for
other ways to garner that information that are less involved! : )