On 12/2/15 6:36 PM, Swingman wrote:
On 12/2/2015 5:59 PM, -MIKE- wrote:

I'm entertaining the idea of hiring a helper, mainly for lifting and
holding in place. I'm also entertaining the idea of buying/building
some adjustable cabinet lifts to hold against the wall and steady for
attaching. I'd rather invest in tools than pay a helper, but my mind's
not made up yet.

First order of business is to get your blocking in the wall for the top
of the base cabinets, and the top, and bottom, of the wall cabinets,
similar to this:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...261 359111762


I wish!! Remodel, old cabinets are gone, I'm putting up the new ones.
I'll check for blocking, man that would be awesome if someone had the
forethought.



I use a laser level to establish the top line of the base cabinets, shim
them to the line, then measure up from there for the bottom of the wall
cabinets.

We usually install the base cabinets first.

At that point I joint a 2 x 4 perfectly flat, as long as necessary,
attach/screw that to the wall, perfectly level, for your all cabinets to
sit upon, thusly:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...7 30363468274


I've done that in the past, but I'm not sure If I can on this job as I
don't know I need to leave the walls intact. I'll find out tomorrow.
*Hopefully* they are repainting and I can screw a tuba4 to the wall and
patch the holes.


Personally, I would not waste money on a cabinet lift system of any
kind, unless you're working alone.


I'm looking at something like the T-JAK support.
In combination with the tuba4 support rail I think I could go it alone.
It also looks like something I'd use for other things. But yeah, with
a helper and the support rail I don't think I'd use it a second time.


I've seen techniques where cabinets are attached to each other, first on
the floor, then listed into place on the wall as an attached group. Does
this save time?

We try to attach as long a run of cabinets together as possible (that
two people can handle) prior to lifting them up on the aforementioned
leveled 2 x 4's, simply because it saves time in shimming a run to the
wall.

To do this, it is advantageous to have a flat surface to work from ...
we usually use a sheet of plywood on the island cabinets, or a flat floor.


I was thinking that would be the best way to screw them together.
I'll definitely do that if I go the helper route.

Excellent advice all around, which is what I expected from you.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

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