-MIKE- writes:
On 11/30/15 11:52 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Jack writes:
On 11/29/2015 10:56 PM, Bill wrote:

I found an old Marples morise chisel last night that looks very rusty
(it has "thick rust"-lol). I'm going to try to resurrect it with some
of that rust-remover liquid and a wire brush, from H.F., and a stack of
silicon carbide wet/dry. I'll take a before and after pic for fun, if it
works out.

For heavy rust, I always used Navel gel. Works a treat. When finished
wipe off with water, then lacquer thinner, then coat with Top-Coat type
product.

The problem is that once you clean up a badly rusted
cutting tool, you're often left with pitting near the
cutting edge which, unless lapped completely out,
will make it nigh impossible to sharpen the tool to a
good edge.


How deep could any pitting be? Give me a grinder and 30 seconds and the
pitting is gone. Then another couple minutes to "scary sharp."

It's the back of the chisel or blade that becomes pitted. You can't
grind those pits out as they're not generally concentrated at the cutting
edge, but rather further away from the bevel. You'd have to grind
off most of the blade to eliminate the pits.

Yes, pits in the cutting edge itself, or on the bevel side can be ground
away. Pits on the back, not so much, and they affect the quality of
the cutting edge.