I have a 'monster' Blue school one in the workroom next to my office.
In the shop I have a low cost plug in gear grinder, but it works.

Pencils started to change when plastic was introduced into the clay.
The clay % determines the hardness and binds.

The big blue one sharpens the thumb size to normal pencil size.

Martin

On 11/26/2015 1:41 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
krw wrote in
:

On Thu, 26 Nov 2015 10:01:19 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

I would probably switch out to one of my drafting pencils but my wood
supplier gives me wooden pencils, these are actually great pencils
that last a long time. Apparently there is such a demand for those
free pencils that they now sell them. I have 37 unsharpened and have
only used about 4 in the past 3~5 years. The leads don't break on
these wooden pencils. ;~)
IMHO if you can't sharpen a pencil you cant get a fine enough point
for certain marks, .7mm is not fine enough for me much of the time.

Use an xacto knife.


I consider a pencil sharpener an essential shop tool. They cost no more
than $20, and I love the manual "school" style (Based on the Boston L)
myself. I often use it when the pencil gets dull, just a quick little
twist or 3 and the pencil's ready to use again.

That's also the lathe. I wonder if there's a pointy stick compendium
somewhere on the Internet?

Puckdropper