On 11/20/2015 12:43 AM, Micky wrote:
How to fix my 5V, 2.5amp adapter.

I had 4 short power failures today, and everything on the PC started
up fine after the first 3. The fourth was longer so I went grocery
shopping.

When I restarted, none of the lights on the wireless router went on,
and an ohmmeter showed infinite resistance between the two prongs that
plug into the wall. I had a surge, didn't I?

Do you think I'll be able to fix this? An exact replacement is only
$7.50 but that's not the point. I want to fix what's broken.

I chiselled the case open and it has maybe 6 electrolytic capacitors.
None show the bursting top that I"ve heard about. It has a big
transistor and a little one, 2 big diodes, 2 little diodes, what might
be a transformer and another double winding, 2 or 3 resistors and a
couple little ceramic capacitors.

Right next to an AC prong, it has what looks like a fuse with
pigtails, silver ends, and a grey body (not glass) but it shows
continuity, 0.3 ohms. Right next to that is a yellow thing,
rectangular on all sides, labeled Carli. Might be a Metallized film
capacitor.

What should I look at first?


If I can't fix it, my router is b, g, seems fast enough for the
printer and the rare laptop use. (The computers themselves use cables
for connecting) But should I apply the 7.50 to an L router, or is
something better than that coming?


Thanks a lot.


P. S. This is what's broken:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5V-2-5A-D-Li...3 01720248001

(Right now I'm using a universal digital camera AC adapter, that I
bought 20 years ago. I almost didn't buy it because I did't have a
digital camera and didn't expect to get one. Didn't get one for
another 10 years (and even it doesn't use an adapter like this.))


Bottom line...buy the new supply.
Problem with that one is the plug on the end is different from
most other router power supplies. Get the right one and be done with it.

I fix wall warts all the time for my own use. I'd never sell a gizmo
with a power supply that I repaired. Too much liability involved.

Most fail with shorted input diodes, but
that also blows the fuse.
I've been fixing stuff for almost half a century, but working on
line-connected
stuff still scares the hell out of me...and I've got a completely isolated
scope probe system.
Even if you do find out what's broke, where are you gonna get the
replacement part?
Putting it back together is problematic. What happens if you
try to unplug it and the glue breaks...you end up with AC in your
hands...not fun.

Look at the risk/reward ratio.
Best that can possibly happen is you save $7.50.
Worst is electrocution? burning down your house?
For stuff connected directly to the line,
if you don't know what you're doing, keep it that way.