On 10/15/2015 11:41 AM, Oren wrote:
`On Thu, 15 Oct 2015 11:15:31 -0500, Muggles wrote:
On 10/15/2015 11:04 AM, Oren wrote:
On Thu, 15 Oct 2015 09:59:16 -0500, Muggles wrote:
I'm not a mechanic, or plumber, or electrician, so yeah, I know very
little about residential propane water heaters, or tempering valves.
Go figure. I should beat myself with a wet noodle because I asked a
question about water heaters and the cost.
Victim Card Detector max out 
LOL I should have added a smiley face, or /sarcasm tag.
What people are saying is to be more clear and specific. Best you can.
Sure, but I don't always know what people don't know to be more clear on.
Take what they say and verify it independently to validate it is true.
Well, I usually try to do that, but sometimes end up asking more
questions until I understand what I'm supposed to be looking for.
One step at a time. What I understand is you haven't even finished
the green house, yet you want heat for the fish.
Temps are starting to drop at night, but we aren't needing an immediate
solution until they drop during the daytime, too. So, I'm inquiring
ahead of time to get ideas of other options we might build into the
green house, now.
Temps are dropping here to, so we turn off the AC and open windows...
Same here. I get to spend more time outside now that the heat isn't in
the upper 90's - 100's!
Building a "great" green house may not require heat for the fish
except in rare instances.
Tilapia are very strong fish to raise. They don't have too many
particulars except for not tolerating lower temps (below 70°). We've
know that heating the water can be cheaper than heating the green house,
and that large tanks of water and gravel on the ground can be passive
heat sources, too. One main problem in the green house is fluctuating
temps between day and night, which can kill any veggies we're trying to
grow via the aquaponics system even IF the fish can tolerate the
temperature changes.
Modify the GH temp fluctuations. We still don't know how it is
constructed. You can always let heat out. Keeping heat in is another
approach.
The original green house was a hoop house. I figured most people know
what that is so didn't go into more detail. The new one is wood
construction. I thought I mentioned that at some point. hmmm
Do you need more specifics like 4x4 beam construction, insulated walls
with bat and batten siding, and 4x6 beams at the top? The north wall
will have windows at a 53° angle to catch the winter angle of the sun
better and reduce overheating in the summer time. The north wall is
solid (no windows). The general building plan looks close to this:
http://www.builditsolar.com/Projects...uildEazyGH.jpg if you're
looking at it facing east. The door is on the west side of the
building, and the windows face south. Also our door is going to be much
wider than the one pictured so we can get large tanks in an out of the
building, and right now we're planning on having a large sliding barn
door, but that may change. On the south wall there's a knee wall. All
the walls that don't have windows will be double insulated. We plan on
having automatic solar windows that open when the temps get too hot and
close when the temps cool down. (need more info? Or pics, maybe?)
Keep the cart ahead of the horse.
Did you even look at the first link I posted in a reply? Aquaponics
in Wisconsin. I suggested to contact them to see how they raise fish
(perch) in winter.
Oh yes. We done a lot of reading on the subject via links similar to
yours. This is our 5th year with a green house and running an aquaponics
system. Our first system was small and each year it's grown.
The first year and fifth year methods should not change much except
for the scale of production.
Well, the first couple of years were learning how to run a green house
PLUS incorporate aquaponics into the system. All research on the latter
subject is kind of like going from video to website collecting bits and
pieces of what other people have done in their own set-ups, which is
nothing like our set-up.
--
Maggie