On Tue, 06 Oct 2015 10:32:16 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

On 10/6/2015 9:51 AM, wrote:
On Tue, 06 Oct 2015 08:34:23 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

On 10/6/2015 8:20 AM, Uncle Monster wrote:

I think a lot of inductive loads can also lead to problems with GFCI
trips. I've been reluctant to upgrade the dishwasher circuit to GFCI (as
called for in the new code) for fear that I'll be running outside to reset
breakers often.

Information I've come across indicates that any appliance which uses water
or will normally get wet shouldn't be plugged into a ground fault
receptacle. It listed dish washers, refrigerators, freezers, washing
machines and disposals. It didn't specifically mention sump pumps. I'd have
to find it again to post a link. ^_^

2014 code:
210.8(D): "GFCI protection shall be required for outlets that supply
dishwashers..."

Of course, the power cords for many dishwashers aren't accessible
when the washer is in use. So, a GFCI *outlet* (receptacle) is
out of the question (also, GFCI outlets tend to be duplex).
So, this translates to a GFCI *breaker* for the dishwasher.

There is nothing to say it can't be a duplex but they also make a dead

My undestanding of "dedicated" circuits is that it can't be possible
to plug anything *else* into the circuit alongside the "dedicated"
appliance.

E.g., our dishwasher, refrigerator, furnace, etc. all have "single
outlet" receptacles. Even the condensate pump in the furnace ties
into the furnaces "plug" instead of having it's own (which would be
much more sensible given that the pump resides outside the furnace).

As long as the fixed in place equipment does not draw more than 50% of
the ampacity of the circuit it can have receptacles on it.

front GFCI device that fits in a regular device box like the
receptacle but has no receptacles. You would put this in an accessible
place up stream of an appliance with a plug in a place that was not
accessible without pulling out the appliance.
In exterior locations, these are handy because it can be under a water
tight snap cover instead of those code mandated "bee condos" the code
requires for receptacles.

What's the value of an outdoor receptacle that has no receptacles? :
IME, most folks have very few outdoor receptacles.

You have the receptacles down stream from the dead front GFCI. Then
the GFCI can have a snap cover and the receptacles still have those
useless "in use" covers.
I prefer to have a GFCI inside feeding the outside receptacles but the
dead front is another option.


When we moved in, here, there was one GFCI circuit. It handled the
outlets in the two bathrooms, the outlet in the garage, the outlet
on the front porch and the outlet on the side porch. (i.e., nothing
in the kitchen!)

There are now five or six outlets along the back of the house
(I think 4 on the porch, alone -- no need for cords to cross
the doorway!). Bathrooms have a shared circuit. Two for
counters. Another for garage, etc.

They fixed that around the 1990 when it was required that the bathroom
circuits have no other outlets.

For the reason you mentioned (a long walk to reset it) the device
style GFCI in the area it will be used is usually a better design
choice.

A GFCI shouldn't be tripping. The same should be true of a breaker.
If you need for it to be "convenient" to reset, then you're doing something
wrong. If its that easy to "undo" it's initial attempt at protection,
you're more likely to blindly "reset" it -- only bothering to try
to understand "why" when it trips AGAIN.

You are also supposed to test them once a month according to the
lawyers who signed off on them ;-)