On 8/1/2015 8:28 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
In article , lcb11211
@swbelldotnet says...

On 8/1/2015 5:49 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
In article , lcb11211
@swbelldotnet says...

On 8/1/2015 5:03 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
In article , lcb11211
@swbelldotnet says...

On 8/1/2015 3:32 PM, dadiOH wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote:

This site seems to do a decent job of differentiating between varnish
and polyurethane. Well, at least is seems like a decent job to a
rookie like me.

I keep telling you...oil poly IS varnish. (So is water poly, just not a
very good one).

Stolen without permission from:

http://www.shesails.net/tag/varnish-vs-polyurethane/

Varnish:

Varnish is made from a combination of resin (either plant-derived or
synthetic), drying oils (most often tung or linseed), solvents
(turpentine, etc.), UV protectors, and sometimes driers.

Urethane/polyurethane is a resin. Mix it with the other stuff and you have
varnish.


Yup! LOL As many don't understand, varnish is not made a specific way.
Varnish is made many many many many ways.

What kind of wood did you use? I did not use wood, I used oak.

The distinction is generally that the "resin" in varnish is soluble in
the carrier--recoat and it blends right in. Cured polyurethane is not
soluble in much and certainly not in the carrier solvent.


FWIW my current gel varnish of choice is Old Masters.

If you do a search of varnish on their site it brings up Spar-Marine
Varnish, Oil-based Polyurethane, Tung Oil Varnish, Penetrating sealer
to just name the first 4.

http://www.myoldmasters.com/search.htm

Additionally, the specific product that I use is

http://www.myoldmasters.com/products...ed-gelpoly.htm

It is a gel polyurethane varnish. Application indicated dry to touch in
5 to 6 hours and wait at least 6 hours before reapplication.
Sanding between coats in not necessary. Reapply, 2~3 coats and
basically the more the better.
Given those specific instructions, there is no maximum wait time between
coats indicated. I have reapplied as long as a year later using this
specific product.

Does that method work 20 years later like it does with the kind of
varnish in which the carrier is the solvent for the resin?



What method? I have been using gel varnishes since 1989. I have had to
clean and reapply the gel varnish on our old kitchen that I built in
1991.

Clean and reapply is not the same as repairing a damaged spot.

That was probably over 8 years ago. My son now owns that house
and there is no issue.

What "issue" would there be?

The original gel varnish was Bartleys. I either
recoated with Bartleys or Lawrence McFadden. I was switching brands
when LMcF bought Bartleys gel stains and varnishes and I was buying
direct from LMcF.

I wasn't talking about "recoating".


I don't recall any one mentioning anything other than applying another
coat to a well cured surface.