Greg Guarino wrote:
On 7/28/2015 1:10 PM, dadiOH wrote:
Greg Guarino wrote:

Alternatively clamp the stiles in the correct position, trace the
curve with a pencil, and use a disk sander to remove the material
to the curved line.

No disc sander here. But we are talking about less than 2
thousandths. That shouldn't be difficult by hand. What I'm still
trying to visualize is whether or not that .0018" "rise" that represents
the
difference between the curve and a straight line would be visible.
Is there a rule of thumb?

Yes, absolutely!! A RCH MAY make a difference (sometimes) but
1/500 never.

Geez. Yet another tool to buy:

http://www.chruler.com/

I see that they are cheaper in bulk...time to stock up for all your friends


Precision in woodworking is rather a "sorta" thing. Once, long ago and far
away when lumber yards still did mill work, I needed to make a skylight for
my boat and took a cut list to a yard. I don't recall the exact
measurements but one piece was so many inches and some 64ths. They balked
at that, said they couldn't cut it that precisely so I asked about 32nd of
an inch. Yes, they could do that.

So how is cutting to 1/32 any easier than cutting to 1/64? Both are precise
and measurable. The answer is, there is always some slop, regardless of the
measurement; i.e., cutting to 1/32 may be close but there is some slop +-.
Ditto to 1/4. Or even 1"...blades wobble, the marking on measuring devices
have width.

Since then I haven't worried NEARLY as much about precision. Which is not
to say I don't TRY to get stuff "on the money", just that I don't worry
about things being a skosh off. As I said, "Clamp tight, wood compresses".
It does. It also bends.

What I DO worry about is getting everything that is to be a particular
length/width/thickness the same; if off a bit, I want them ALL off a bit,
all the same. To
that end, I don't use measuring tapes all that much, prefer story sticks
marked with a knife cut.