On 6/24/2015 12:02 AM, Puckdropper wrote:
I have a wooden plane, with an angled body. (I'm not sure of the exact
name.) It uses a wedge and blade with cap iron. The wedge is supported
by the outsides of the body. The wedge is similar to this one:
http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/b...od_mitre_C.jpg

(Photo from: https://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/...og/145/Wooden%
20Mitre%20Planes%20-%20John%20Green%20c.%201800 )

The plane itself looks more like this one:
http://5.forums.drupal.assets.taunto...inewoodworking
.com/files/attach_images/104263/Appleton_AS536-1_Sm_3.jpg

(Photo from: http://forums.finewoodworking.com/fine-woodworking-
knots/hand-tools/american-wooden-plane-maker )

It appears the wedge would reduce the effective cutting width of the
iron. If I tried to take a full width of the iron shaving, it appears
the sides of the wedge would get in the way. Is this correct?

The wedge looks like it's been compressed or worn down from use. To get
the plane to work, I shimmed the iron assembly with .020" styrene and the
wedge with another piece of .020" styrene. (I had it handy and figured it
wouldn't compress too badly.) Would I be better off with a single .040"
shim between the cap iron and wedge?

When using the plane, I get a mix of crunched shavings that clog it
quickly and when I press down harder and go faster I get a single shaving
that goes out reasonably straight. Obviously, I want to stop the
crunched shavings. How? (Do I need to take a deeper cut?) My test
piece was a piece of PT 5/4 decking that was handy. It's had several
months to dry out.

Puckdropper


Not really the edge of that iron should be cambered so the edges won't
touch the wood. I

--
Jeff