Thread: The shed wall
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jloomis[_2_] jloomis[_2_] is offline
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Default The shed wall

I thought the 4x6 pt was a quick easy fix.
Yes it would outlast the owner...
john

"HerHusband" wrote in message
...

Waiting for a concrete truck to arrive is not in the cards.


For a small job like that you could always mix your own on site, but
there's nothing wrong with block if you want to go that route.

Another option might be to add an overhang and/or gutter to the roof
so water is directed away from the building.

It's on a side already--water goes over the wall at a right angle.


??? I'm not sure I understand what you mean. Is there an overhang above the
wall you are replacing? If so, how far does it extend from the building,
6", 12", etc.?

One has and has been repaired, using the method that you suggest with
flashing etc, but I don't really like that as a solution. Code says 8
inches, it's in code for a reason.


It only needs to be 8" on the exterior. They put wood framing in basements
afterall.

Actually, the solution jloomis mentioned with a pressure treated timber
would be a good option too. If you use PT lumber rated for ground contact
it would likely outlast you. Just put down some sill sealer between the
concrete and timber before bolting the timber down. You could step up to a
4x8 or larger if you want more ground clearance.

In any case the decision is made--cut the anchors and replace them.
One is placed so that I can't get a wider opening.


I'm glad you have a solution that works for you. Could you grind the bolt
in the doorway below the surface of the slab then patch it for a wider door
opening? Or just grind it smooth with the slab, it's just a shed afterall.

Good luck with your project!

Anthony Watson
www.mountainsoftware.com
www.watsondiy.com