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J. Clarke[_4_]

In article ,
says...

On Mon, 22 Jun 2015 18:56:39 -0400, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

In article ,
says...

What, pouring concrete is less work than setting a half a dozen cinder
blocks?

I guess it depends on what you're more familiar with. It would be a
simple matter to set up a couple of forms, pour in some concrete, and
level it off. Especially for a job that small.

I know blocks are common in many parts of the country, but I don't care
for them and have no experience with them. For me concrete would be a lot
easier to work with. With the cinder blocks you'll still need to mix up
mortar, try to keep things straight and level, and maybe fill the block
cores with mortar.

Waiting for a concrete truck to arrive is not in the cards.

I should have mentioned that it's slab-on-grade and the sill anchors
in question are the ones that secured the rotted-out sill to the slab.
The whole idea is to get the sills 8 inches above grade as is required
by most building codes.

Are you raising the door too? Unless you're leaving an opening in the
block wall for a doorway, won't that complicate getting your mower and
other items in and out of the shed?

Leaving an opening.

Is it possible to regrade the area around the shed to gain clearance
without having to raise the shed wall?

Nope. Not a chance. If I did that the slab would be suspended on air.

Another option might be to add an overhang and/or gutter to the roof so
water is directed away from the building.

It's on a side already--water goes over the wall at a right angle.

You could also put rock or concrete around the perimeter of the exterior
to minimize splashback on the wall. I have concrete pavers in front of
our shed with only 3-4" clearance between the siding and pavers. No ill
effects in 20 years.

Alternatively, you could simply add a strip along the bottom of the shed
that is impervious to water. Metal flashing, PVC or composite lumber,
etc. that would let you raise the bottom of the siding up as needed to
keep the wood away from the ground. I used that approach on my in-laws
garage since we weren't replacing the existing studs.

Finally, what about the other walls of the shed? If they haven't rotted,
what is different about them? More ground clearance, roof covering, etc.?

One has and has been repaired, using the method that you suggest with
flashing etc, but I don't really like that as a solution. Code says 8
inches, it's in code for a reason.

In any case the decision is made--cut the anchors and replace them. One
is placed so that I can't get a wider opening.

Just make sure you use good concrete block, not the cheap lightweight
cinder blocks. gasket the sill to the block with something like
BluSeal to keep the sill from contacting the concrete. Use good S
mortar to bed and lay the block course. (has both lime and portland in
it)

Geez, it's an effing shed, not Fort Knox. Cinder block is fine for the
purpose.