you must have not read my other posts.

the cap was changed in value, and I replaced it, I only shunted it to see if
I had a drive at the base, which I did.

as for experimenting, that is my way of troubleshooting, or basically
tracing something back until it stops, and then look around in the circuit
for bad parts in the area that stopped, and thats the area that had the
nearly open cap.

so, thats how I troubleshoot things, and I dont have a schematic, nor feel
like ordering one for any TV I do, and it works for me every time. I have
fixed every TV i ran into so far.

I just study the boards, then do my work. I dont need to have experiance in
"one or another chassis", It would be nice, but I dont.

I just get down to the basics. I know how each function, and each circuit
works, and I study the boards to examine and show me how the circuit is
designed.

"LASERandDVDfan" wrote in message
...
one more thing, the square wave pulse is continous, its not shutting
down, probably because its not getting to the flyback, or the base of the
HOT, it dies off at the driver xistor. its there on the base, gone on the
collector

Forgive me for being blunt, but it sounds more like you're experimenting,
not
repairing.

You should have checked the simple stuff first, like bad caps or even cold
joints, but you automatically assumed that it was a major problem.

When you thought it may have been a cap, you shunted it in circuit?!

What you should have done was take the suspected cap out of the chassis
and
tested it for high ESR and to see if it can hold to its rated capacity. -
Reinhart