On Friday, June 26, 2015 at 7:40:00 PM UTC+1, wrote:
On Friday, 26 June 2015 13:55:42 UTC+1, fred wrote:
On Friday, June 26, 2015 at 10:48:03 AM UTC+1, stuart noble wrote:
On 25/06/2015 23:27, fred wrote:
On Wednesday, June 24, 2015 at 9:57:43 AM UTC+1, stuart noble wrote:
Or he may have a blunt blade though I'm also more inclined to go
with the misaligned theory.

Leave off the fence and push the timber through free
hand.(CAREFULLY using at least one push stick) If it doesn't
scorch then the fence is the problem


IME most hardwood scorches because of the resin content. I've got
various bits and bobs lying around, some of which are at least 150
years old, and they still bleed resin when cut. I would test the
blade on sheet materials or decent quality softwood.

Not my experience. I'm using some oak obtained when an old teacher
training college closed. Judging by the style of the construction the
general finish and the age of the school this furniture is at least
70 years old. Cutting it on a table saw gave no burning. It mostly
cane out of a lab.

There was also some pine among the items and it had the most
beautiful scent when re-cut.

Nearly all gone now into Versailles planters.

Similar story with some native oak we re-cut out of an 8ft log some
15 years ago and air dried. Bugger to cut but no burning and the
appearance of the quarter sawn boards is beautiful. The reason we
re-cut it ourselves was to get the best of it quarter sawn

Good sharp blade and right speed of cut should give good resukts.

What hardwood were you using with a high resin content ?


The one I remember specifically was beech. The blade was well gummed up
after cutting. Some unspecified fruitwoods, although soft in texture,
also gave problems. I think maybe the blade hits a resin "pocket" now
and then. Actually, oak has never given me problems.

Not that I doubt you for a second but I've never had a problem with resin in beech. The worst problems I have found were with Pine and its sisters.. Trouble is I'm a miserable ******* and invariably use re-cycled wood as I get it free. But then I have to re-design things around available sections and keep a sharp eye out for buried metals and watch that buried dowels don't suddenly appear in the wrong place.

I find a tct blade eats nails happily enough. I wouldn't want to cut an easily rotatable metal fixing though, if it turns in mid cut you'd have a problem.


NT

Well with 300mm blades costing upwards of £150 for good ones I wouldn't be risking it. Lots of present day chipboard is made from re-cycled materials so seeing the odd spark isn't unusual but I've had a whole tooth knocked out when cutting fresh 25mm sheets.

In theory we can pay extra for virgin sheets but in reality they're like hen's teeth