I have to agree with Dave that electric hand planes are not the easiest of beasts to use especially when you have to operate them in anything other then their normal operating mode, namely horizontally along a length of wood. The traditional method ie. Andy's dads method or as shown in the wiki or the Workmate method are fine when using traditional Jack planes but a whole different kettle of fish with an electric planer. As I said In my previous post to do the top and bottom you have to stand astride the door holding it with your knees to stop movement and bent over being at full stretch by the time you end the stroke. I cannot see anybody advising any one that it is safe to run a power tool parallel to part of your body where one slight loss of control means your legs are the next thing it hits. It would be like placing a piece of wood in a Workmate then sitting on the Workmate with your legs either side of the wood to be planed and proceeding to plane with your electric planer. Likewise clamping the door horizontally to trestles/workmates and running the planer at right angles means you do not have full control of the machine as you have gravity working against you. I am not saying you will not see so called "professionals" doing either but it is foolhardy to do so. I am no 'elf & safety freak but strongly believe in not putting parts of my body in the way of fast turning sharp power tools. If you do not feel you can manage the task with a traditional plane and need to use a power tool than a router is your best bet. All you need is a guide suitably offset clamped to the door, a sacrificial piece of wood at the end of the router traverse and you will get splinter less edges and crucially all your body parts intact. If you have many doors to do then spending a little time knocking up a bit of a jig will save time in set up. By all means use an electric planer for the long edges of the door, but not the top and bottom.

Richard