On Tue, 24 Feb 2015 10:52:37 -0600, "Shaun"
wrote:



"rickman" wrote in message ...

On 2/16/2015 10:16 PM, Sparky wrote:
Do you happen to have quadruple 300 W audio channels on board?

No, mostly stock old Toyota. Only additional load is Xenon lamps. These
pull
10A total which isn't much for lights...

Maybe I'll upgrade the alternator to a later-model Toyota 70A or such.

Why would you need a bigger alternator than the one that came with the
car? Are you using substantially more current than the car used when
new? How? Only the biggest sound system would use much more current,
and if you have some enormous sound system, or a winch that you use all
the time, stop using those things until you figure out what is wrong
with the car.

My brother bought a new car and the dealer replaced the altenator, the
starter motor, and the battery twice, to make the car start right. But
the dealer guys didn't know what they were doing.

I took it to Sears and they found the problem in less than 5 minutes.
It was a dirty connection between the positive battery cable and the
starter solenoid (which also powered t he starter motor.) It cost
NOTHING in parts to fix, and they charged me nothing to fix it, perhaps
becaue I was buying a new battery, but it would have been very cheap
anyhow. If it's not that connection, it might be another one. You're
battery cables could not have 1.5 ohms resistance, but where they are
connected might.

If a battery post gets hot when you're trying to start the car, there
is a bad connection between that post and the cable connecter that's
attached to it. Hot does not mean it's carrying a lot of electricity.
It means it's having trouble carrying the electricity it needs.
Because of a bad connection that wastes energy making heat.

People spend a lot of time t hinking abou tthe big components and less
time thinking about the wires in between (which I gather you have
checked) and even less time thinking about the connections of the wres
in between. Check them all, especially those that carry substantial
current.

They fixed it, but every time I left the light on for a few hours, the
problem would start again. At firstr I took the cable off and cleaned
everything, like the Sears guy did, but then I learned just ot rotate
the cable end on the stud, 10 or 20^ and then rotate it back.

Finally I got a buzzer that buzzes when I left the headlights or parking
lights on and the problem went a way entirely.

What is your current unit rated for 60A?

I replaced the 70A alternator in my truck when a diode opened up. It
was still working, but not enough juice to charge the battery when the
lights were on and I run the headlights all the time, lol. Nothing ever
got fried though.

What is your alternator model number? What year? Mine is a 97 T100 and
I found they changed the alternator in mid model year (around April,
IIRC). Causes a lot of confusion on what is the right model. I tried
finding a replacement diode bridge. *That* was the major change and was
incompatible between the two versions. When looking for parts be sure
to use the VIN to get the right one.

I ended up getting a used alternator and it is running ok now...
although it is in the shop for a clutch. They've ordered two so far.
The first pressure plate "collapsed" whatever that means and the springs
on the second weren't right. They are giving NAPA some hell over this
and are getting an upgraded one to put in my truck. Hope to have it soon.