Ed Huntress wrote:
John Doe wrote:
Ed Huntress wrote:
Ed Huntress wrote:
John Doe wrote:
Assuming the drill needs to be held against the bicycle's bottom
bracket anyway, a non-locking connection turns out to be easy.
Lowe's sells 1/2 inch 20 TPI nuts in their specialty drawers (2 for
$1.67). That nut fits on the DeWalt drill spindle. The bicycle
bottom bracket tapered spindle is about 1/2 inch square. So a 1/2
inch drive socket that fits the drill spindle nut neatly completes
the connection.
I might carefully grind a little bit off of the bottom bracket
square tapered spindle and/or maybe the socket drive area so that
the 1/2 inch drive socket slides on a bit further, if I can
confidently do that. Don't want to make it off-center though.
Aha. It sounds like you're trying to lap-in the bearing cones on the
bottom bracket, right?
That should be "cones and cups." I have done this with bicycle wheel
bearings, but that was in my engine lathe.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7665/...ec9d50e7_z.jpg
A 1/2 inch drive socket pushes onto that but only about 3/16 of an
inch. Would be useful to shave the four sides of that spindle and/or
the inner square drive area of the socket, so that the socket will
slide onto the spindle further, but only if it can be done without
misalignment. A tiny bit of wobble would be okay, but only tiny.
Just what is it you're trying to accomplish?
I wanted to get the drill 1/2 inch closer to the bicycle, but since I
just realized how to secure the socket to the spindle, I will probably
forget about that optimization.
Maybe I missed it. That bearing looks sealed, so lapping it probably
is not what you're doing.
My bottom bracket is not like the picture. That picture is just to show
what the square tapered spindle looks like. There are different bottom
bracket designs, but apparently most use a square tapered spindle like
that.
The connection between the cordless drill and the bicycle's bottom
bracket spindle is even better than I thought. As described above, all
it requires is two parts, a nut and a socket. The nut goes on the drill
spindle (exposed after the chuck is removed). The 1/2 inch drive socket
goes on the bicycle's square tapered bottom bracket spindle. And the
working side of the socket goes over the newly acquired drill spindle
bolt.
And, as I just did, if about 1/4 inch of the socket (drive side) is
removed with a rotary tool, the bicycle spindle sticks into the drive
side of the socket far enough so that, inserted into the socket from the
other side, the small spindle nut (or bolt, depending on your type of
bottom bracket spindle) holds the socket securely on the spindle. So the
only loose part is where the working outer side of the socket slips onto
the large nut that's on the drill spindle.
Here are the parts in the order they fit together...
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8822/...02750a4f_z.jpg
My electric bike will be extremely efficient like the following YouTube
example, but much better mechanically.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MtmSXgjXXB8