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Jim Wilkins[_2_] Jim Wilkins[_2_] is offline
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Default Harbor Freight for the Strategic Shopper

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 19 Feb 2015 07:21:05 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
. ..

Humm..counting the 8060As and the bench tops...I may have around
10.....Crom!!


Have you ever tinkered with an 8060A?

I bought one real cheap that worked fine in the store but became
intermittent at home. I suspect the pushbutton switch contacts.
Before
I tear into it I'd like to hear first-hand what works and more
importantly what doesn't.


During my meager time as a test tech, I discovered that the spray
contact cleaner designed for switches worked wonders on our old
equipment. Clean, debride g, deox, lube.
https://www.google.com/search?q=spray+contact+cleaner


I bought the 8060A during the summer and set it aside as a winter
repair project.

The upper A V ? button fails the [PowerOn + REL] switch test:
http://pdf.datasheetarchive.com/inde...SADA001160.pdf

It passes the ratio test with 9999. PowerOn + --)))

My choices are CRC MAF and general-purpose contact cleaner, 91%
isopropyl alcohol, Deoxit and Deoxit Gold. I've never tried Deoxit,
the others have worked well enough for me on more accessible wiping
contacts like the harness connectors in my truck. Here's the issue,
see 2.4:
http://www.brentek.com/pdfs/DRY_Applications.pdf

At Unitrode we used semiconductor-grade 91% isopropyl to clean new
boards and bare wafers after Freon was prohibited. I have the
Walmart-grade.

http://mrmodemhead.com/blog/fluke-8060a-repair/
"The switch assemblies make it hard to fully clean the circuit board
with IPA (isopropyl alcohol), which is usually step #1 in any
restoration project."

Internet opinions on contact cleaners vary. Any soluble contamination
is likely to enter the switch, and once inside it's nearly impossible
to remove, so I'm asking for hands-on experience.

-jsw