On Wednesday, January 7, 2015 5:23:36 PM UTC-5, HerHusband wrote:
Hi Jennifer,

It looks like our water heater might be on its last legs. before
I order a new one, I thought I'd check out what the plumber told
me. What is the life expectancy of a good quality water heater?

I think the average is about 10-15 years, but there are a lot of
variables that could affect it's life span (usage, water quality,
electrolysis, etc.).

What is a good quality water heater? Does the brand/model make
that much difference?

There's not much to a water heater, and you'll probably only have two or
three brands to choose from. I would avoid the cheapest heaters, but
don't buy more than you need either. For starters, look for lined tanks
and good insulation.

The heater is installed in an unheated basement room in a mild climate
(rarely under 40F and seldoim under 50F). Does having it wrapped in an
insulating pad matter much?

Most water heaters these days are manufactured with good insulation
already. You won't gain much by adding an external wrap.

Anything else I should know before deciding on a new heater?

Is it gas or electric?

Is your old heater leaking, or just not heating? You might be able to
replace the heating element or thermostat at a lower cost than replacing
the heater.

How big is your current heater? 40-50 gallons is typical, but if you have
a large bath tub or several people in the home, you may want a larger
tank.

How much space do you have for the heater? If you have low headroom you
may need a short heater. If it fits in a closet or alcove, you might need
to measure the available space and find a tank that fits.

You should use dielectric unions for the water connections. These help
prevent corrosion caused by electrolysis (electrical differences in
different types of metal).


The dielectric union thing, I'm not convinced. If the old one had
corrosion at the transition point, then I'd use them. I've had water
heaters over many years, no DE unions, no corrosion issues. Code
may require them though in some places.



You should have a drain pan to catch water if the tank develops a leak.
Of course, the pan should drain somewhere safe, it won't hold 40+ gallons
of water.

Yes, good idea.



Make sure there is a new pressure relief valve on the water heater, and
test it after installation to flush out any debris. Again, this should be
plumbed to a safe drain somewhere.

Every one I've seen comes with one.


You should also install a seismic strap to anchor the heater to a wall so
it doesn't tip over if there is an earthquake.

If you're in an earthquake prone area.


If you currently have a gas water heater, you may want to consider
tankless, on-demand water heaters. These are smaller units and only heat
water when you use it, so you never run out of hot water.

When she does the math and finds out what they cost, including the
many install issues, IMO it's a non-starter.



If you have an electric heater, you may want to consider a heat pump
water heater. These use a lot less electricity, but the heater will need
to be located in a room with enough space to draw heat from. These
extract heat from the air, so they may not function well in a tiny
enclosed room.

Take care,

Anthony Watson
www.mountainsoftware.com
www.watsondiy.com