On Fri, 19 Dec 2014 20:01:03 -0600, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Fri, 19 Dec 2014 17:35:11 -0600, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
...
Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 19 Dec 2014 15:14:39 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:



Right, and threads aren't single-pointed on an antique leather
belt driven lathe, except by home hobbyists who haunt
rec.crafts.metalworking.
-jsw

Watch it bud , yer hittin' pretty close to home there ... though
come to think of it that doesn't apply to me . My antique lathe is
using an automotive serp belt for drive .
--
Snag

I like the leather belt drive. It disengages instantly when I thread
right up to a shoulder, while the motor is still coasting down, and
lets a bit dig in without much trouble, which I was glad of when
reworking some solid copper truck starter terminals into current
shunt bolts.
-jsw

Oh I'm using the original drive mechanism , just the belt has been
replaced . I was using clipped belts from Logan , but kept pulling
the clips out . At 40 bucks a pop for a new belt , I had my son the
parts guy get me a serp belt of the correct length . I can actually
stall the motor now if I try .

Flip it over, Terry. That'll relieve that little misstep.

I seldom tighten the belt that much , no need to . I got really tired of
having to regrind cutters because the belt slipped in a heavy cut and the
cutter welded to the work .

I can see where that would be counterproductive.


I've used this belt with both sides against the
pulleys , not a whole lot of difference .

That's interesting. Are you running on cogs or smooth pulleys?

--
With every experience, you alone are painting your
own canvas, thought by thought, choice by choice.
-- Oprah Winfrey